Hello from Livingstone, Zambia (9000Kms and still only one puncture!)

Our last three weeks were spent in Botswana – 21 days full of game hunting (photographic only !) and bush camping. We crossed over from Namibia in the middle of the Kalahari Desert at a little used border post. Had a fairly amusing time washing our boots and Big Mama’s wheels in some solution to kill foot & mouth, and then cooking all of our fresh meat on the fire that burns in the no mans land between the borders. I wish that the Aus/NZ agricultural officers were so flexible that you could cook your food right there and then rather than have it confiscated ! We spent 3 nights in the Central Kalahari hoping to spot an elusive predator or two but with the lack of water in this season we didn’t have much luck, just the traces of much hunting activity on the track overnight… We then headed North to the Magkadikadi salt pans where ancient lakes used to lie spending 2 fabulous nights on Lekhubu Island - a pink baobab covered ‘island’ in the middle of these glistening white pans. The sunsets out there surrounded us with 360-degree pinks & purples and moon was so strong at night we didn’t even need a torch.

Further North we visited the Okavango Delta where the water brings life to the desert and to the animals that migrate North during the dry winter. Moremi reserve seemed like a garden of Eden after the time in the desert, full of monkeys, zebra, warthogs, impala, red lechwe and so much birdlife. Predators were still our prey on this photographic hunt and we spent severl days sitting by waterholes hoping to see lions, but even though we could hear them growling and grunting around our camp at night we still had not spotted any. The landscape and game viewing got even better as we went into Chobe Game Reserve with forms the Northern border of Botswana – and finally we saw our lions at Savute camp ! Two hunting lioness and a close miss with a group of blue wildebeest and a georgeous (but lazy, leaving the women to do the hunting !) black –maned lion. Fittingly, we celebrated Florent’s birthday that night with foie gras (thanks to our new friends Jean-Jacques & Martine !) under the stars with the elephants trumpeting at the waterhole close by and the cheeky impala coming very close to our campfire to check our feast out.

We crossed into Zambia 3 days ago through our first real chaotic African border crossing with money touts, insurance salesmen and ‘facilitators’ everywhere. All the formalities went smoothly though and we found that most people (once they realised that how budget we were and that we really meant no when we said we weren’t paying them), were very friendly and helpful ! We headed straight for Bovu Island for two days of pure relaxation on a small island in the middle of the Zambezi. As soon as step out of the mokoro onto the sandy tracks of this place you feel the island’s calm – the only thing we had to watch for was monkeys getting into our food or hippos coming on to the paths at night but otherwise there really was not a care in the world. We spent time in the mekoro on the Zambezi, visiting the local village clinic, joining in soccer practice with the local team, relaxing in the hammocks, in the library hut and even at a service in the local apostolic church.

Today we’ve visited the famous Victoria Falls of every overland African trip. They were as spectacular as you can imagine – with the ‘smoke’ thundering away and covering us with a fine refreshing mist. We explored all afternoon finding perfect little hidden spots away from the crowds and watching as the Zimbabweans came across to catch fish just above the falls.
Tomorrow we’re treating ourselves to some adrenalin pumping action as is the tradition here - Florent is going rafting and I am getting back in a kayak to do the Zambezi. After almost 10 years of not being in a kayak on a river I’m taking the soft option and going in a tandem kayak with a guide but I’m sure it’ll still be pretty awesome – can’t wait !

Love
Pippa & Florent
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