Tsumeb, Namibia – 1 puncture, 5000kms

Wow! Our time in Namibia is almost coming to an end and it has been fantastic! From our slightly hesitant beginnings, we’ve found our bearings and have really made the most of our time here. In the South we visited the old diamond mining areas, with bizarre anachronistic German leftovers, like a fortified castle in the middle of the African savannah, a fairytale art nouveau mansion built high on the rocks in a village, and joyful villages of pastel coloured houses in the middle of the grey diamond-bearing desert… We feasted on apple strudel, multigrain breads and felt like the only English-speaking tourists around…

From there, we headed up the coast to the Namib desert and the saffron coloured dunes that snaked their way across the horizon for miles. Florent was up early to be the first at the top of the dune to see the sun peak over the lip – I almost gave myself an asthma attack trying to follow him but we made it and it was stunning! Heading further north, we travelled into our first really remote rural areas where people live in ‘mud’ (ie. cow dung!) huts, have a few goat and perhaps a cattle or two but not much else. We were incredibly lucky to spent the night in a Himba village near Opuwo, with our guide Festus (+264(0)813167146 – use him if you are ever coming this way!!)) camping just outside the kraal where an extended family of Himba live. These are people that still live traditionally, farming goats and dressing in the traditional way covered in ochre from head to toe. Even when you’ve spent days in the area, their appearance is still surprising, they appear like extra terrestrials, coloured ochre, dressed in cow skin skirts and with plaits running forwards instead of back for the kids. They live alongside the Herero who dress like German people 100 yrs ago with the bustled dresses and all, as well as westernised Namibians and it creates a really bizarre sort of cultural mix. We played with the kids in the village, who, having never seen TV were amazed to see themselves on our video, learnt about the demanding beauty regime of the Himba women who must cover themselves in the ochre powder mixed with animal fat or Vaseline from head to toe every day (and I thought cleansing, toning and moisturising was a tough ask!) and spent the night around the campfire discussing African politics with our guide. That was a very special night, and it really made you realise what poverty in the African sense is.

The last few days have been in Etosha where we have filled memory card after memory card of pictures of African animals from different angles– from the cute ‘pronking’ (like a kangaroo jump) springbok, to the graceful zebras, aloof Oryx, Jurassic giraffes on the horizon, un-perturbed lions feasting on giraffe and of course, the iconic elephant. We’ve been mock charged by a bull elephant, and really charged when we came across them on the road - and I can tell you that the sight of an elephant running it’s 10 tonnes of mass down the road after you certainly gets the adrenalin pumping! (but luckily Big Mama is fast J).

All along the way we’ve met many lovely people and have been absolutely bowled over by people’s generosity and by the trust the local people seem to have. We’re becoming more intrepid as we continue and are beginning to find some perfect bush camping spots for ourselves and the multitude of African birds and mammals that come to share it with us.
Today, it’s off to visit the San people in Eastern Namibia and then in a few days we will cross into the home of Mma Ramotse the No 1 Ladies Detective… Botswana

Hope you enjoy the photos!

Love

Pippa and Florent

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