Miskolc (pronounced "mishkolts, as it took me forever to learn) is Hungary's third largest city and home to its biggest university. It's a poorer city that used to be an industrial center in the Soviet era and has a reputation of being less than lovely, with its refineries and nondescript housing blocs built after heavy bombing during World War II. But despite all that everybody had told me (including a native of the place, who said it wasn't really worth visiting), we found some things of interest here. According to Lonely Planet, the city's tourism board bills Miskolc as a "city of churches," and during our two visits it appeared they might be right.