Hamiltons Dive Log: 2004 - N.B. Work in Progress....
In the meantime, here's my un-edited dive log from 2004 (as seen in parts of the Lonely Planet Thorntree).
To get to the dive log, find 'Hamiltons Dive Review'
Please direct any queries to 'dive_review@fastmail.fm'.
Now that I'm back home, and online, I'll be working on getting the better underwater pix up, and some of the S1 video footage.
Introduction
This project is intended to be a `thought starter` for anyone thinking of going to any of the locations I`ve visited.
Think of it as an independent 'opinion' of a bunch of cool dive sites from around the world.
I`m no expert (started the trip at ~40 dives as OW, but ended on over 100!), so I`ve tried to keep to the bare facts, as they existed at the time.
Obviously conditions, and people, vary with time, although I`ve tried to indicate where this may have had an impact on my experience.
Structure
Each dive destination gets a section, each section contains the following:
Country - Obvious!
Town - Nearest town on the map
Operator - The dive company I used
Place - The dive sites themselves (these names may vary between operators)
Date - Month first, as this has most impact on conditions
Maximum Depth - Where relevant, I`ve indicated particularly deep dives
Equipment - General condition of hired kit.
Staff - `shop` skills, organisation, info & helpfulness
Professionalism - `DM` skills: focus on safety, checks, briefings,
Potential - what might reasonably be seen on a good day
Actual - what I say the day I was there
Coral - assesment of quality, quantity, variety
Animals - ditto
Summary - the `would I go again / would I recommend it`
Defaults: most dives required a 30 min or so boat ride. Current was not a problem unless mentioned. Equipment review limited to BCD, octopus, gauges.
This is, by nature, a personal, subjective view. However, in this world of advertorials and funded reviews, it is as unbiased and independent as possible.
Suggestions
Please send constructive critique, to: dive_review@fastmail.fm
Work in progress
I am considering the following categories:
- dive shop quality (whats for sale)
- dive operation size (to account for the diff between small outfits and the big 5star dive centres)
- an `overall assessment` (marks out of ten) - dunno how to weight the different categories though
- dive cost (just as a reference)
- a `value for money` rating, to combine an overall assesment with cost
- a way of integrating user feedback (e.g. like the Amazon book review process), both or text, and for the overall assessment.
I`d appreciate thoughts on the template.
If you want to email me _your_ input, from places you`ve dived, I`ll try to work out some way of keeping this list updated.
Please use the template at the end, below, and send to: dive_review@fastmail.fm
cheers,
Hamilton.
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Hamiltons Dive Review
Summary of countries included:
Kenya Watamu
Tanzania Zanzibar
Malawai Nkharta Bay
Mozambique Vilanculos, Tofo
Sth Africa Sodwana Bay, Aliwal Shoal
Sri Lanka Nilaveli
Thailand Koh Tao
Indonesia Bunaken, Bali
Australia Exmouth (Ningaloo), North GBR
The Individual Dive Reviews.
C: Kenya
T: Watamu
O: Aqua Ventures (next to Hemingways Resort)
P: Watamu National Park: Canyon, South
D: Feb 3rd, 2004
MD.: 18m
Viz: ~10m
Eq.: 6/10. kit was reasonable.
St.: 8/10. DM young, friendly.
Pr.: 8/10. had gratis `pool review`, thorough. Dive site drawn on map, well explained.
Po.: 7/10. Marine Park suffering from reduced viz due to river sediment.
Ac.: 7/10. Lots of small fish
Co.: 0/10. No coral to speak of
An.: 6/10. Lots of small fish
Summary: Good if you`re in the area, but not a destination in own right. Further out sites may have more of interest. DM: Daniel.
C: Tanzania (Zanzibar)
T: Stone Town
O: Bahari Divers
P: Murogo, Fungu Reef, Bawe Island,
D: February, 14th, 15th, 2004
MD.: 18m
Viz: ~10m
Eq.: 7/10. Depth gauges ropy
St.: 7/10. Informal, not serious divers.
Pr.: 7/10. Captain/DM ok, boat boy did not appear alert.
Po.: 7/10. Coral, smaller fish, rays. No wrecks
Ac.: 7/10. Lots of coral, like flying over a forest.
Co.: 8/10. For beauty & quantity
An.: 6/10. morays, moorish idols, puffer fish, spotted rays
Summary: Not quite a dive destination, but worth a visit as part of a week on the island, with time spent on the North East (for pelagics), and Pemba. Operator distinctly average. Boat is an old fishing boat, with nice sundeck on top. Good for snorkelling (combined groups ok) as well. DM: Abdul
C: Malawi
T: Nkharta Bay
O: Aqua Africa
P: South Bay (local reef)
D: February 22nd, 2004
MD.:17m (47m ASL. Depth rated as +2m on RDP. Freshwater!)
Viz: <10m
Eq.: 7/10.
St.: 6/10. Formal, but friendly
Pr.: 7/10. Good descriptions of expected sightings, route over divessite, but no drawings.
Po.: 7/10. Specific freshwater creatures: cichlids, `mouth breeders`, large catfish
Ac.: 6/10. Cichlids are small, but pretty, with interesting behaviour. Mouth breeders are fascinating. Didnt see catfish. No vegetation.
Co.: n/a
An.: 5/10. Variety is limited.
Summary: A fascinating place, for specific conditions and animal behaviour (knowledge of which significantly improves dive experience). Very short boat ride (<10 mins). Very cheap, esp for courses ($120 for OW). DM: Andy.
MD.: 20m
Viz: <5m
Eq.: 9/10. All kit (incl boat) <6 months old, little used. SPG`s had timers.
St.: 8/10. Young, friendly, informal.
Pr.: 7/10. Little info on dives other than by discussion. Office untidy, no briefing area. Oxygen on boat.
Po.: 8/10. Mantas, dolphins, nudibranch, coral.
Ac.: 6/10. Rough sea & poor viz <5m meant not much seen.
Co.: 6/10. Purple, lots.
An.: 6/10. large grouper, crocodile fish, morays, large shoals
Summary. Distance from shore (typically 50-60 min rides at speed) detracts from an average dive experience (and adds to cost for some dives). Susceptible to weather & tides. Small, friendly & informal operation. DM: Stuart.
MD.: 32m (Giants Castle), 26m (Amazon)
Viz: 10-20m+
Eq.: 6/10. Repeatedly faulty depth gauges
St.: 9/10. Friendly, informative, competent.
Pr.: 8/10. Lots of pre-dive info available, maps and descriptions of sites, with pertinent info (incl Nitros data) on office board. Briefings thorough, ethical (3T), clear.
Po.: 9/10. Mantas, sharks, dolphins, turtles,
Ac.: 7/10. White-tip reef shark, turtle, whale shark
Co.: 0/10. Not a coral destination
An.: 7/10. Saw 1 manta briefly, distant. Kingfish, barracuda, scorpionfish, harlequin shrimp (local `pets`), turtle, plus snorkelled with 5m whale shark on return from The Office.
Summary: An excellent dive operation, with friendly staff & DM`s, relaxed but thorough, and good diving potential. Good value, cheap to stay nearby. Boat beachings can be rough. 2 good operators in Tofo, have different names for same reefs! Pity the mantas were hiding when we were there, but plenty to see for our 3 days. Currents can be strong, and frequently a timed countdown and immediate -ve entry was required to hit the GPS drop-in point,
C: South Africa
T: Sodwana Bay
O: Coral Divers
P: 1/4 mile reef, 2 mile reef,
D: March 23rd, 2004
MD.: 14m
Viz: 15-20m+
Eq.: 6/10. Equipment tired. Leaky o-ring on 1 dive.
St.: 4/10. Staff not particularly friendly or organised (except reception staff)
Pr.: 4/10. Cursory briefings. Impolite (verbal dressing down due to leaky o-ring, see Summary)
Po.: 9/10. Ragged tooth sharks in residence.
Ac.: 10/10. Ragged tooth sharks in residence.
Co.: 7/10. Plenty of coral on outer reefs
An.: 7/10. Raggies, moray eel, coral-eating fish.
Summary: Safety issue due to operators support of untrained locals (i.e beachboys) to kit-up. Staff not sympathetic to issues caused by this. Boats do not carry basic spares such as o-rings, spare DIN tank adapters. Coral Divers appeared to be the only operator at time of visit, which may explain their cavalier attitude.
On the upside, swimming with 10 3m+ sharks is an indescribable experience. Go with patience & no preconceptions.... just remember your not supposed to hold your breath. DM: PJ, Ticky
C: South Africa
T: Aliwal Shoal
O: Aliwal Shoal Adventures
P: North Sands, Raggie Cave
D: March 30th, 2004
MD.: 18m
Viz: 5-10m
Eq.: 7/10. No issues for me, but no good-fitting suit for 5ft4in endomorph buddy.
St.: 7/10. Staff laid back & chilled "me casa su casa".
Pr.: 7/10. DM`s varied in thoroughness. No `office` as such, and difficult to get concrete pre-dive info.
Po.: 8/10. Manta Rays
Ac.: 10/10. Mantas observed on both dives. A sublime experience
Co.: 6/10. Didnt really look at the coral
An.: 9/10. Manta rays, sand shark, Octopus, lobster, turtle, pod of dolphin on return from 2nd dive.
Summary: The Manta Rays made all the difference, and I frankly can`t remember much else than watching these amazing creatures dance in the water in front of me, frequently coming close enough to touch.
The shop also has cheap accomodation across from the kit-up area, and good seafood nearby. One DM in particular was model of efficiency wrt briefings, shop less organised. DM: Francois, Boyne.
C: Sri Lanka
T: Nilaveli
O: Sri Lanka Scuba, NBH
P: Pigeon Isl, Black Isl, Irrakandy wreck
D: 26,27 June, 2004
MD.: 18m
Viz: 10m
Eq.: 6/10. Depth gauges not working.
St.: 5/10. Owner (Eric) not very enthusiastic. DM not good at English, no info on dive sites, little support material in office.
Pr.: 3/10. No check on qualifications, poor briefing,
Po.: 3/10. Coral has suffered from bleaching, dynamite fishing and careless anchors. Fish varities little greater than Med or Canaries.
Ac.: 3/10. Coral better when snorkelling. Fish variety better at wreck. Pigeon Island cannot be recommended. Wreck interesting, large (40m long, 10 wide), variety of marine life present
Co.: 2/10. Limited amount present.
An.: 4/10. Reasonable variety at wreck
Summary: Wreck is worth a look if in area. Dive shop not professional, and qual-check failure unforgiveable safety risk. Poor briefings, and equipment & boat of minimum usable quality.
C: Thailand
T: Koh Tao
O: Scuba Shack, Chalok Baan Tho
P: Shark Isl (N), SW Pinn, ao Leuk, Chumphon Pinn, White Rock
Hi Wong Pinn, Hin Wong Bay
D: July 22-24, 2004
MD.: 31m (Chumphon)
Viz: 5-20m
Eq.: good. working depth gauges. all kit cleaned in disinfectant water
St.: good. friendly and knowledgeable of area, some with several years local experience. Shop owners less friendly & not really sociable.
Pr.: AOW tuition and assessment weak (not clear if exam was reviewed). Briefings were basic, occasional use of printed maps
Po.: reef sharks, turtle, bluespot rays, aggressive trigger fish, spanish dancers (N)
Ac.: see Po.: barracuda, one moray, as well
Co.: mediocre. not much near shore.
An.:
Summary: Small dive groups (a rarity on Koh Tao) and early starts (06.30) to beat the `rush` make this a recommended operation, also the low cost (700B=$16 per dive). Friendly and relaxed DM`s, although shop owner/boat captain intolerant of any late nights. Food & accomodation `average` for area, flaky electricity 18.00-06.00. Good snorkelling nearby. Outlying sites worth making a detour for,
C: Indonesia
T: Bunaken (Manado)
O: Living Colours
P: Fukui, Likuan, Sachiko, Siladen
D: July 29-Aug 1, 2004
MD.: 34
Viz: 10-30m
Eq.: Excellent. Recent BC`s & regs, all kit labelled so same kit each day
St.: DM`s mostly local, friendly, efficient & knowledgeable. Excellent at flora & fauna location & identification, and knowledge thereof enthusiastic
Pr.: Good. Briefings could be more thorough.
Po.: Evverything from exotic macro shrimps upto sperm whales
Ac.: Turtle, black-tip reef sharks, wide variety of pretty, large, dangerous or just plain ugly fish; variety & numbers
Co.: Outstanding: 200+ varieties on some sites, cover frequently so extensive there is no reef to grip during drift dives.
An.:
Summary: Location is undoubtedly worldclass. Breadth of variety and numbers unsurpassed in my experience. Flora & fauna species too numerous too count. Shoals in the tens to 100`s. Operation benefits from enthusiastic & knowledgeable _local_ (Indonesian) DM`s. Acccomodation basic, but clean. No restaurants so eating `in-house` for every meal... invariably fish & rice.
C: Indonesia
T: Bali
O: Scubaskool
P: Tulamben, & Nusa Penida
D: August 6,7, 2004
MD.: 25m
Viz: 20+
Eq.: average. suits good, BC`s tired, one octopus incorrectly rigged, no depth gauge on one octopus.
St.: Shop staff friendly, DM`s obviously rented, as are boat staff if required.
Pr.: Poor. Briefings vague, DM`s not always ready at appointed time.
Po.: Liberty Wreck: lots of friendly fish
Nusa Penida: Sharks, turtles, mola mola
Ac.: LW: as above. Fish very habituated to divers, frequently within touching distance, and often inquisitive. NP: average. few large fish (occasional tuna), lots of shoals, lionfish, one moray.
Co.: Both: good. Wreck is mostly covered. NP has good variety (reef/wall)
An.: LW: good. NP: disappointingly absent of pelagics.
Summary:
Not overly impressed. Shop experience not carried through to dive experience. Dive staff are rented `by the day`, equipment looks like it is. Price is average for area, snacks and food seemed above expectation. Driver at least on time. Briefing (& shop staff) failed to highlight strong current at NP, which would be unsuitable for beginner divers. After Bunaken, any site will dissapoint, though.
C: Australia
T: Exmouth
O: Exmouth Village
P: Ningaloo Marine Park. Murion Island: JL 80, ??
D: Sept 1, 2004
MD.: 14m
Viz: 15m
Eq.: Good. New wetsuits, hoods & boots. BCD`s a bit ropy (e.g. not all straps adjustable). SPG.S work, some with bottom timers
St.: DM`s friendly.
Pr.: Thorough safety briefings, on boat. Excellent First Aid equipment. Dive briefings poor, little explanation of sites, routes, etc
Po.: Excellent. Pelagics, corla and fish varieties. Turtles, Mantas, sharks
Ac.: Average. Reasonable variety of fish life, but coral outcrops dissapointingly bare in places, lacking expected colour & variety
Summary: Had been expecting a `better than GBR` experience, and left wondering `just how bad is the GBR`. Flora & Fauna not a patch on Bunaken, and frankly not even as good as Nusa Penida. Some nice swim-throughs. Water a baltic 22c, requiring rashies and hoodies with the 5mm suits. DM`s very friendly, but not much knowledge transfer amongst them, so the `local` DM told us afterwards that if we.`d dived with him, rather than the `visiting` DM, we`d have had a much better dive. Not what we wanted to hear, having spent $175AUS ($60US) per dive.
C: Australia
T: Exmouth
O: Exmouth Village
P: Ningaloo Reef: Blizzard, 100`s & 1000`s
D: Sept 2, 2004
MD.: 13m
Viz: 15m
Eq.: Good. New wetsuits, hoods & boots. BCD`s a bit ropy (e.g. not all straps adjustable). SPG.S work, some with bottom timers. Rashies & hoodies avaliable.
St.: DM`s friendly.
Pr.: Thorough safety briefings, on boat. Excellent First Aid equipment. Dive briefings poor, little explanation of sites, routes, etc
Po.: Excellent. Pelagics, coral and fish varieties. Turtles, Mantas, sharks
Ac.: Good+. Sea snake, octopus, one out moving over reef. Huge moray eel (<>4" jaw width?) Reasonable variety of fish life, coral outcrops well populated. Good variety of nudibranchs. Manta glimpsed by one dive. Humpbacked whales heard during dive, and seen en-route to/from site.
Summary: Much better than Murion, although in part due to excitement of seasnake & octopus. Coral in greater varieties and amounts than Murion, with lots of reef ledges, crevices etc for fish to hide in. Fish varieties and numbers high, shoals of 200+ small fish, very tame. Excellent for hump-backed whale watching in/around dive area, and en-route.
Turquoise Bay: Snorkeling here is world-class; turtles, sharks, coral and reef life & fish variety outstanding, and all within 100m of shore.
*****
C: Australia
T: Cairns
O: Taka
P: Great Barrier Reef
D: Day 1: Ribbon Reef 5 (Clam Garden, Temple of Doom, Steves Bommie
MD.: 30m (dive 3 ex 4)
Viz: 25m+
Eq.: good. I had a computer on my SPG, variety of wetsuits in shortie & jackets, although no `long` suits. Hoods and booties available, fins to suit. BCD`s in good condition (all releases present/working). Seperate wash/storage tanks for cameras, fresh water for mask washing. Boat <1yr since refit, wet areas well laid out, acceptable space for 30 divers.
St.: Good. All friendly and efficient.
Pr.: Good. Thorough but entertaing briefings, good dive briefings (enough extra detail included t support te self-navigation)
Po.: sharks, turtles, cuttlefish, glass shrimp, stone & lionfish, etc (std tropical reef fish, lots of anemone feesh of diff types)
Ac.: sharks (night dive!), lionfish. Much less life apparent... although may be due to not having a guide/DM. Cameraman saw most of Potential entries, plus others.
Co.: frankly average. Cover maybe 50% Lots of bare rock.
An.: Lots of schooling fish, large numbers of `edible` or game fish (trevallys, fusliers, etc). A few nudibranchs. (pineapple ones of note)
Summary:
An average reef dive. Liveaboard operator is reccomended, facilities, food and staff are good. (no other experience yet). Diving experience suffers in comparison to Bunaken, as fauna numbers and variety are nothing special. Example: night dive was almost complete washput, redeemed only by visit of white tip reef shark (green eyes), and a few lionfish. Coral at night not a patch on Bunaken. Wonder how poor the `day trips` from Cairns are. So far, even Ningaloo is better for variety.
C: Australia
T: Cairns
O: Taka
P: Great Barrier Reef
D: Day 2: Cod Hole (2), Pixie Pinnacle, Chellenger Bay (N)
MD.: 27m
Viz: 25-30m+
Eq.:
St.:
Pr.:
Po.: Cod feeding. Sharks, turtles, cuttlefish
Ac.: Better sites than above. Crusaceans on night dive, long cucmbers, snakes. 3 cuttlefish at Cod Hole.
Co.:
An.:
Summary:
A better days diving. Cod feed is contrived, but site worth the visit for life in bounteous shallow reef area. Night dive much better, many shrimp & crabs. Pinnacles had lionfish & nudibranchs. Other large cod around.
C: Australia
T: Cairns
O: Taka
P: Great Barrier Reef
D: Day 3: Reefs off Port Douglas (Hogs Breath, Split Bommie)
MD.: 27m
Viz: 25-30m+
Eq.:
St.:
Pr.:
Po.: Sharks, turtles, rays, cuttlefish, etc
Ac.: Cuttlefish and Eagle Ray at Hogs Breath. Glass-shrimp, worms and nudibranchs at Split Bommie)
Co.: Poor condition, maybe 50% dead/bleached, at Hogs Breath. Split Bommie slightly better (would be a great snorkelling site).
An.:
Summary:
Day 3: Sites clearly and depressingly in less good condition, as closer to civilisation. Some interesting macro fauna, but you have to hunt for it.
Overall: not bad for a first liveaboard. Plenty of marine life, although more of a gamble as to whether it will be observed or not. Ningaloo Reef on the west coast is certainly the equal of the GBR, and coral at latter not as good as Bunaken. Macro life not as prolific, but interesting small things there for the patient and attentive.
C: Egypt
T: Dahab
O: Sphinx Divers
P: Canyon, Els Bells/Blue Hole, Moray Gardens, Islands, Lighthouse
D: July 2005
MD.: 30m
Viz: 15-25m+ depending on the day, amount of plankton
Eq.: Good. BCD's & regs in good condition, wetsuits not too worn.
St.: DM's (Brett, Alberto) very friendly & professional. Shop staff (locals) firmly focussed on the business and finance side.
Pr.: DMs' very professional and thorough. Check/refresher dives are mandatory, and thorough.
Po.: Rays, Turtles, Lionfish
Ac.: Buddy saw 1 turtle once. Lots of lionfish. Morays, scorpionfish, boxfish, triggers, etc - standard tropical reef environment.
Co.: Average. Coral cover varies, probably on a par with the Great Barrier Reef. Colours and variety are average. Coral generally in patches rather than covering entire reef, although some individual good examples.
An.: Limited exciting sightings. A very few nudibranchs. Lots of lionfish, and reasonable number of morays.
Summary: Dahab is an excellent beginners dive destination, combining easy access (all dives are shore dives), with good tuition from western DM's. Aquatic life is average, and not representative of the 'world class' reputation of the red sea.
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[b]Proforma for your feedback [/b]
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