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Complete GL1800 Maintenance video now available at
http://www.angelridevideos.com
First, jack the bike just enough that the front wheel is off the ground
First, jack the bike just enough that the front wheel is off the ground
Now remove the instrument panel cover. Take out the bolts and push rivets under the speaker grills
Now remove the instrument panel cover. Take out the bolts and push rivets under the speaker grills
Lift up on the bottom of the panel to remove
Lift up on the bottom of the panel to remove
Push out on the tab on the electical connection under the panel and dissconnect the connector
Push out on the tab on the electical connection under the panel and dissconnect the connector
Here you can see the connector after the panel is removed.
Here you can see the connector after the panel is removed.
Here is the other side of the connector on the bottom of the instrument cover panel
Here is the other side of the connector on the bottom of the instrument cover panel
Remove the screws holding the fork cover on.
Remove the screws holding the fork cover on.
Pull out the black plastic fork end cap cover
Pull out the black plastic fork end cap cover
Lift up on the rubber cover for the stem nut and turn signal cancelling unit
Lift up on the rubber cover for the stem nut and turn signal cancelling unit
Pull out the turn signal canceling circuits connector
Pull out the turn signal canceling circuits connector
Disconnect the connector and push aside
Disconnect the connector and push aside
Remove the 30 mm stem nut. A large crescent wrench or pliers (if you're desperate like me) will work, a 30mm socket works better
Remove the 30 mm stem nut. A large crescent wrench or pliers (if you're desperate like me) will work, a 30mm socket works better
Remove the stem lock nut
Remove the stem lock nut
Now, loosen the upper triple clamp bolts. A 12mm socket and ratchet is used here on the left triple clamp.
Now, loosen the upper triple clamp bolts. A 12mm socket and ratchet is used here on the left triple clamp.
Here I am using a box end 12mm to loosen the right side triple clamp bolt.
Here I am using a box end 12mm to loosen the right side triple clamp bolt.
Take note of how the cables and hoses are routed so you can get them back in their homes when you are done
Take note of how the cables and hoses are routed so you can get them back in their homes when you are done
Here is a look at the cables & hoses on the left side
Here is a look at the cables & hoses on the left side
Now remove the bolts that hold the bars on the top bridge
Now remove the bolts that hold the bars on the top bridge
Use a cloth to protect the bike and carefully lay the bar to the side
Use a cloth to protect the bike and carefully lay the bar to the side
Do the same with the other side.
Do the same with the other side.
Now remove the cables support clamp
Now remove the cables support clamp
pull the clamp free, being careful to note which hoses went where, and how the clamp was oriented (throttle cable UNDER bridge)
pull the clamp free, being careful to note which hoses went where, and how the clamp was oriented (throttle cable UNDER bridge)
Loosen the top triple tree clamps for the forks on the top bridge
Loosen the top triple tree clamps for the forks on the top bridge
Rock the top bridge back and forth to free it, then maneuver it out the top
Rock the top bridge back and forth to free it, then maneuver it out the top
Here is a look at the top bridge after removal
Here is a look at the top bridge after removal
Now you have good access to adjust the bearings using the Honda Tool. Torque to 20ft/lbs
Now you have good access to adjust the bearings using the Honda Tool. Torque to 20ft/lbs
This lockwasher has two prongs that point up onto the locknut and two that are bent down onto the adjuster nut.
This lockwasher has two prongs that point up onto the locknut and two that are bent down onto the adjuster nut.
This is my home made tool for adjusting the bearings.  Honda sells a prettier one for $45
This is my home made tool for adjusting the bearings. Honda sells a prettier one for $45
This page shows how to re-pack the upper and lower bearings with grease
This page shows how to re-pack the upper and lower bearings with grease
Here is the top race being removed
Here is the top race being removed
Here is the top bearing being removed
Here is the top bearing being removed
Here is the stem with the bearing and race removed.  The front wheel has to be chocked and on the ground, or the stem will drop
Here is the stem with the bearing and race removed. The front wheel has to be chocked and on the ground, or the stem will drop
This is the top bearing and the top bearing outer race
This is the top bearing and the top bearing outer race
Here are the top bearing components removed
Here are the top bearing components removed
I put on lots of high quality synthetic moly grease on the bearings
I put on lots of high quality synthetic moly grease on the bearings
Bearing and top race loaded up with grease and ready to install
Bearing and top race loaded up with grease and ready to install
Note front wheel is chocked to hold bottom of steering stem in place
Note front wheel is chocked to hold bottom of steering stem in place
Here I have the top bearing removed, turn signal cancel arm dissconnected, and the stem slid down to expose lower bearing
Here I have the top bearing removed, turn signal cancel arm dissconnected, and the stem slid down to expose lower bearing
Here is another view of bottom bearing.  Notice it is dry and needs to be greased.  I greased it and pushed the stem back up
Here is another view of bottom bearing. Notice it is dry and needs to be greased. I greased it and pushed the stem back up
Here is the upper bearing greased and re-installed
Here is the upper bearing greased and re-installed
Once in place, I filled the void with grease and really packed it in
Once in place, I filled the void with grease and really packed it in
Now I re-install the seal.
Now I re-install the seal.
I lubed the bearing adjustment nut with oil so I could get a nice 20 ft lb torque on it
I lubed the bearing adjustment nut with oil so I could get a nice 20 ft lb torque on it
Bearing nut re-installed and ready to be torqued to 20 ft lbs
Bearing nut re-installed and ready to be torqued to 20 ft lbs
Here is the turn signal cancel unit removed from the bike
Here is the turn signal cancel unit removed from the bike
The tab on the bottom of the cancel unit gets pushed onto the wiper arm
The tab on the bottom of the cancel unit gets pushed onto the wiper arm
DriverTool.JPG
DriverTool.JPG
DriverTool2.JPG
DriverTool2.JPG
DriverTool3.JPG
DriverTool3.JPG