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Complete GL1800 Maintenance video now available at
http://www.angelridevideos.com
Works Performance GL1800 Shock with OEM Honda pre-load adjuster
Works Performance GL1800 Shock with OEM Honda pre-load adjuster		 Works GL1800 Shock
Works GL1800 Shock		 The rebound dampening is adjustable via an allen screw on the bottom of the shock
The rebound dampening is adjustable via an allen screw on the bottom of the shock		 The spring has a 1,100 lb spring rate. The OEM shock has a 900 lb spring rate.
The spring has a 1,100 lb spring rate. The OEM shock has a 900 lb spring rate.
Here is a look at the OEM shock side by side with the Works Performance shock
Here is a look at the OEM shock side by side with the Works Performance shock		 You can tell see a difference in the springs and shock body.
You can tell see a difference in the springs and shock body.		 First, remove the rear wheel cover
First, remove the rear wheel cover		 Next, remove the seat
Next, remove the seat
Then remove the cover for the latch assy inside the trunk
Then remove the cover for the latch assy inside the trunk		 Trim comes right off, once the two screws in the trunk are removed
Trim comes right off, once the two screws in the trunk are removed		 Remove the four screws in the trunk (two each side) that hold on the trim pieces
Remove the four screws in the trunk (two each side) that hold on the trim pieces		 Side trunk trim piece removed. Not two plastic threaded tangs that the screws go into
Side trunk trim piece removed. Not two plastic threaded tangs that the screws go into
The rear trim piece is screwed on from the outside, and the srews are exposed once the side pieces are removed
The rear trim piece is screwed on from the outside, and the srews are exposed once the side pieces are removed		 Rear trim comes off after the two screws are removed
Rear trim comes off after the two screws are removed		 Screw locations inside trunk for trunk bottom cover
Screw locations inside trunk for trunk bottom cover		 Screw location inside trunk for trunk bottom cover.
Screw location inside trunk for trunk bottom cover.
Trunk bottom cover has two screws back by the tail lights that hold it on.
Trunk bottom cover has two screws back by the tail lights that hold it on.		 Trunk trim pieces removed
Trunk trim pieces removed		 Keep hardware inside cups and seperated so you know what screws go back where. Most of the trim screws are all the same.
Keep hardware inside cups and seperated so you know what screws go back where. Most of the trim screws are all the same.		 Trunk bottom cover pulls down and aft once all the screws are removed
Trunk bottom cover pulls down and aft once all the screws are removed
Trunk bottom cover removed
Trunk bottom cover removed		 Next, dissconnect the cables for the saddlebag latches
Next, dissconnect the cables for the saddlebag latches		 Note saddlebag cable pulled free
Note saddlebag cable pulled free		 Now you have to find this connector and dissconnect it
Now you have to find this connector and dissconnect it
The red plugs are for the left bag and the blue plugs are for the right saddlebag
The red plugs are for the left bag and the blue plugs are for the right saddlebag		 Now you can start unbolting the four bolts that hold on the saddlebag
Now you can start unbolting the four bolts that hold on the saddlebag		 Saddlebag inner bolt removal
Saddlebag inner bolt removal		 Outter saddlebag bolt removal
Outter saddlebag bolt removal
Once the bolts are out, pull the bag out at the bottom and down making sure to clear the pocket at the top
Once the bolts are out, pull the bag out at the bottom and down making sure to clear the pocket at the top		 saddlebag is now free
saddlebag is now free		 Saddle bag removed
Saddle bag removed		 Now you can see the frame rails for the bags
Now you can see the frame rails for the bags
Dirty bike. Dust collects all over the back end.
Dirty bike. Dust collects all over the back end.		 The next step is removing the top shelter and gas tank (covered in another photo series)
The next step is removing the top shelter and gas tank (covered in another photo series)		 I hosed off all the dust and tried to clean it up as best I could before going any further
I hosed off all the dust and tried to clean it up as best I could before going any further		 When you get the tank out, be sure to tighten these hose clamps. There are three more under these too.
When you get the tank out, be sure to tighten these hose clamps. There are three more under these too.
I turned the hose clamps. Cover them with hard rubber material to prevent them from rubbing a hole in the bottom of the gas tank
I turned the hose clamps. Cover them with hard rubber material to prevent them from rubbing a hole in the bottom of the gas tank		 Here is the first look at the top shock mount
Here is the first look at the top shock mount		 I also took this opportunity to inspect all my welds
I also took this opportunity to inspect all my welds		 Unplug the connector on the side of the unit
Unplug the connector on the side of the unit
Weld checking
Weld checking		 Next I removed the three bolts holding on the electrical/hydralic pre-load unit
Next I removed the three bolts holding on the electrical/hydralic pre-load unit		 This connector also has to be disconnected
This connector also has to be disconnected		 Unpluged connector
Unpluged connector
Here is the bottom shock bolt
Here is the bottom shock bolt		 Removing bottom shock bolt
Removing bottom shock bolt		 Bottom shock bolt pulled out
Bottom shock bolt pulled out		 Top shock bolt
Top shock bolt
You have to hold both sides of the top shock bolt to remove it. One side uses an allen, the other a socket
You have to hold both sides of the top shock bolt to remove it. One side uses an allen, the other a socket		 Top shock bolt removed
Top shock bolt removed		 Once both bolts are out, the shock comes right off
Once both bolts are out, the shock comes right off		 When I removed the right saddlebag, I discovered the vent cap for the rear end was missing!
When I removed the right saddlebag, I discovered the vent cap for the rear end was missing!
Here is a look at the top of the piston inside the rear shock hydralic drive unit, with the motor removed
Here is a look at the top of the piston inside the rear shock hydralic drive unit, with the motor removed		 Here you can see the worm drive and the plunger on the right angle drive unit and the housing for the hydralic unit.
Here you can see the worm drive and the plunger on the right angle drive unit and the housing for the hydralic unit.		 Here is a closer look at the plunger and worm drive on the motor
Here is a closer look at the plunger and worm drive on the motor		 Here is the simple piston, removed from the chamber
Here is the simple piston, removed from the chamber
Here is another look with the piston re-installed
Here is another look with the piston re-installed		 Refilling the unit through the bango bolt hole. I recommend 5 weight Honda suspension fluid (not the brake fluid pictured)
Refilling the unit through the bango bolt hole. I recommend 5 weight Honda suspension fluid (not the brake fluid pictured)		 New Hole added under damper
New Hole added under damper		 Damper unit
Damper unit
ProgressiveRearSpring.jpg
ProgressiveRearSpring.jpg		 RearShockActuator.jpg
RearShockActuator.jpg		 ActuatorGap.jpg
ActuatorGap.jpg
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