1934 notch question Photo Gallery by filmworks4ever at pbase.com

1934 notch question

1934 notch question.

I am scanning a 16mm 1934 short film which turns out not to be a copy but could be a master of sorts assembled from BW pos camera film, with some sections manipulated in other ways,
I noticed that quite often, but not always, after a splice the film would be notched.

And my question is to anyone who knows about old printers is

Were the notches used to:
· Close down the aperture at the splice during copying?
· Skip a frame at the splice during copying?
· Duplicated a frame then skip during copying?

All of this would sort of be the opposite in the 9p5mm pathe notches. during titles to extend frames https://pbase.com/filmworks4ever/9p5mm_pathe

16mm_FW4E3395_003726.jpg	16mm_FW4E3395_003732.jpg
16mm_FW4E3395_006816.jpg	16mm_FW4E3395_006823.jpg
16mm_FW4E3395_007359.jpg	16mm_FW4E3395_007365.jpg
16mm_FW4E3395_007961.jpg	16mm_FW4E3395_007967.jpg

comment |

filmworks4ever		02-Dec-2013 18:14
From Janice Allen This is a cue notch, likely for use on a step printer such as a Debrie, Duplex or DePue, to control exposure via a resistance light board such as the DePue, for which Scott provided an ebay link (above). These very small notches worked well on these types of machines because the film stopped intermittently for each and every frame, in addition the film was running at a relatively slow speed (less than 40 feet per minute) so the electric contact had time to connect well. These resistance based light boards were used for contact and production optical step printing. Depending on the machine and running speed the results at a scene change could often be less than perfect using this type of system. Continuous printers such as Bell & Howell used a longer notch for both 16 & 35MM due to higher films speeds. These machines used a manual electromechanical shutter or lamp house which employed paper tape controlled electromechanical light valves. The notch in the film triggered an electrical contact or micro switch which changed the exposure via whichever system was employed. These notches were still used by some (even major) labs into at the 90's and perhaps beyond, primarily for dailies printing. The main disadvantage is that the notch is cut very close to the perforations and weakens the film at that point. A perforation will often rip through to the notch which can then cause serious damage when the film moves through various pieces of equipment. The film often suffers tears horizontally through a frame or worse yet, vertically ripping of the film (into two pieces) continuously through many running frames. The notch also causes steadiness issues in telecine transfers. Although Bell & Howell standardized the position of the notch (distance from notch to splice or scene change as well as the side of the film the notch was to be placed on), many labs used their own custom positions for various reasons. Sometimes a cue notch was even cut prior to the scene change (rather than after), an electric delay was then employed on the printing machine so that the trigger occurred at precisely the point required. Films will often be found where the notch is cut on a non standard side as well as being placed in a non standard position. Maximum factory speed on a Bell & Howell 35MM Model DC printer was 120 feet per minute, when speeds began to grossly exceed that number, the notch cue detection system necessarily was replaced by Foot / Frame or Frame count cuing systems which were found to be much more reliable at all speeds. Janice Allen

filmworks4ever		28-Nov-2013 19:44
Yes – switching the exposure would have been my first guess, and it may be the correct answer. However, the exposure before and after the splice is good. The splice flashing by is the more objectionable thing. This is why I wondered if there was a mechanism to remove or hide splices without using A-B rolls.

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