12-NOV-1993
Thailand, Bangkok, November 1993
The religious ceremony was underway when I entered the Emerald Buddha Temple, near the Great Palace. Afraid to disturb the ritual I sat on the floor near a group of monks. The temptation to take some photos overcame my decorum. This one was taken when an inattentive and noisy tourist provoked angry looks from the monks. In an instant tranquility again prevailed.
25-NOV-1993
Thailand, Mae Aw, November 1993
North of Mae Hong Song, right on the border between Thailand and Myanmar, near Mae Aw, we can find the refugee camp of the giraffe women tribe. In this tribe, feminine beauty is related to the neck length. Since early childhood girls start wearing metal rings around the neck in order to stretch it. In adulthood, women are forced to wear them permanently to avoid cervical fractures.
07-AUG-1994
Iceland, Vatnajokull Glacier, August 1994
Our stop to eat and drink some water lasted only 20 minutes. Discreetly, I hung back, while the group restarted the trekking, because I wanted to photograph the long row of figures. I must confess that I hid behind some rocks. After taking the shots, I tried rejoining the group as quickly as possible but was found out by the guide. The reprehension I received was somewhat softened when I explained that in spite of being a psychiatrist I still had some sense and I had followed scrupulously the footprints left by the group on the snow, avoiding the possible crevasses. Peace was restored after I promised that I wouldn’t repeat my ‘stunt’.
16-AUG-1994
Iceland, Strokkur Geyser, August 1994
The most famous geyser in Iceland shoots a hot water jet, more than 30 meters high, every 3 minutes. The sky was threatening rain and I decided to keep back a little to get a different perspective before the storm broke. Muttering about the weather unpredictability I went near another small geyser just as the sun appeared and Strokkur blew mightily. I only had time to shoot one photo.
10-APR-1995
Jordan, Dhiban, April 1995
After visiting Madaba and its famous mosaics we drove to the small village of Dihban. The sun at its zenith forced the few visible inhabitants to seek shelter in the shadow. Our presence aroused the local curiosity and while photographing a carved wood door I felt I was being intensely watched. I turned around and surprised a boy trying to hide behind a pillar. In the background, one of the village elders was coming over to check out what was happening.
17-APR-1995
Jordan, Petra, April 1995
Petra, the city of Nabateans is a constant surprise. For two days I toured most of the attractions the tourist guides suggested. Before leaving Petra I decided to step away from the crowded areas and surrender to the beauty of the textures of the rocks surrounding these tombs. It was the best farewell.
05-NOV-1995
Chile, Moon Valley, Atacama, November 1995
The Atacama Desert Valley has a unique ambiance. Everyday, the place to be to watch the sunset is the high area of the Moon Valley. The climb to the top of the dunes is harder than we thought. The first visitors settle down comfortably at the ridge. Later, when the sun goes down, people crowd the dune but I prefer to climb a little further and watch both shows.
19-OCT-1995
Chile, Iquique, November 1995
Known by the giant sand dunes that surround it, Iquique had a surprise in store for us: the town festival was happening. The audience crowded the stage where the artists performed. I managed to go backstage where I found a group of children, their bones showing. Intensely focused in their roles, they remained indifferent when I took some photos.
04-DEC-1996
Philippines, Manila, December 1996
After visiting Chinatown we went back on foot to the center. From an overpass we saw this slum embracing the railway. People lived literally between the rails and life went on as if the railway was deactivated. It wasn’t. This was an apologetically vision of one of Manila’s degraded areas.
20-DEC-1996
Philippines, El Nido, Palawan Island, December 1996.
Considered as one of the Philippine’s last wild frontiers, Palawan Island has hidden treasures only revealed to those who take the trouble of straying from the ordinary tour circuits. At the northern tip of this island, El Nido village is the gateway to a string small islands that make up Bacuit archipelago. By boat, one can discover heavenly places with impossibly colored waters. Magical places known only by the local fishermen.
23-OCT-1997
Namibia, Sea Dunes, Namib-Naukluft Park, October 1997
The day before, in the coastal town of Swakopmund, we had agreed that for this 4 hour desert flyover the door of the small plane would be removed, to facilitate photography. It was the right decision: I was dazzled by the unexpected shapes and velvety textures of the sand dunes. For those traveling on the back seats it was a bad decision not to bring warm clothes as it was really cold in the cockpit.
29-OCT-1997
Namibia, Namib Naukluft Park, October 1997
On the way to Mwisho camp and its luxury tents our expectations were very high as the landscape was superb and on the next morning we would go ballooning! The road meandered through a yellowish landscape. We stopped to take some photos. I insisted that I needed a car passing by to compose the picture. We had to wait for half an hour for one to come by. My friends were beginning to despair. But worst happened during the night: the wind began blowing strongly and we had to cancel the balloon flight and postpone our visit to the desert. We only had our wish fulfilled ten days later.
10-OCT-1998
Yemen, Sana’a Market, October 1998
The central market of Sana’a, near Baba-al-Yaman the main door of the old city, reaches peak activity early in the morning. The incomprehensible calls shouted aloud mingle with bartering discussions and the blaring music, present in most of the tents. The bustle never stops and the real show is to be in the right spot, just watching.
18-OCT-1998
Yemen, Al-Jawf, October 1998
Al-Jawf area is known by the typical architecture of its striped houses and for being the domain of warring tribes still not used to visitors and still keeping armed guards at each village entrance. We persuaded our driver to stop the car. As soon as I approached the house with my camera the girl that had drawn my attention had disappeared, only to return with her schoolbook in her hands and agree on being photographed from behind.
14-MAY-1999
Iran, Ganjnamé, May 1999
Contrary to my expectations I found a friendly people, curious about other cultures and enjoying being with foreigners. Near the small city of Ganjna there are some ancient inscriptions in three languages: ancient Persian, Elamite and New Babylonian engraved on a rock in Darius I era. Right next to it is an irresistible waterfall where I had to take a photo. The female students were completely at ease with my presence.
21-MAY-1999
Iran, Esfahan, May 1999
The painter was so deeply involved in capturing all the details the Masjed-é-Eman’s interior that he never noticed me. This mosque is one of the highlights of Iranian religious architecture, completely covered, inside and outside, by light blue mosaics, whose hues change according to the light incidence. It’s a must to visit at different hours of the day.
06-DEC-1999
Myamnar, Thanboddhay Paya, December 1999
After climbing to the top of the temple I enjoyed myself watching the flow of people below. This group of young monks decided to rejoin me at the top of the spire. The steps were high and narrow and their arms seemed to dance while helping to climb. Their laughter filled the air with joy.
17-DEC-1999
Myamnar, Mingun, December 1999
The Hsinbyume temple (1816) was built in memory of King Bagyidaw’s wife. The seven round balconies surrounding the stupa represent the seven mountain ranges around Mt. Meru. The temple was built according to the Buddhist concept of the cosmos. The setting breathes tranquility. In the background a cow feeds on the grass. The two girls chatting didn’t notice my arrival. When they did, I immediately had company at the temple. In the end a small tip for the unrequested guided tour. All of us try to get by as best as we can…
04-MAR-2010
Costa Rica, La Fortuna waterfall, March 2001
Going down to the base of the falls proved to be more dangerous than difficult. The path was winding and steep, the ground, wet and slippery, didn’t help and neither did the mosquitoes and the heath. Down below, the water spray cooled the atmosphere but didn’t spare my cameras. I stepped aside and then saw her hiding behind a rock; a natural shelter from the water downpour. She was trying to warm herself in the sun and maybe tan her pale skin, after diving in the cold waters.
16-MAR-2001
Costa Rica, Ferry between Puntarenas and Nicoya Peninsula, March 2001
At the beginning of the 90 minute crossing I was lost in thoughts, admiring the view. The indolent rhythm of music slowly intruded, perfectly tuned to the ship’s soft sway. Passengers started gathering to hear the music of what I thought to be an occasional performer. Popular songs were known by everybody and the atmosphere became more and more lively. Shortly before landing the not so occasional performer’s hat was passed around so that anyone would be able to testify to its enjoyment. The payment request didn’t spoil the atmosphere.
05-OCT-2001
Tunisia, Ksar Ouled Soltane, October 2001
The ksour are barns. They usually are built in remote locations, with a single entrance and fortified to avoid enemy pillage. Ouled Soltane Ksar is one of the biggest with more than 400 gorfas or storage cells spread over several floors. Leaving, we found this group of elders enjoying themselves playing this traditional game with two different kinds of colored pebbles.
12-OCT-2001
Tunisia, Tamerza, October 2001
It was a festive day. Ramadan had lasted a whole month, the daily fasting was over. Right next to me the family men were skinning a freshly slaughtered goat. This woman had to attend to the meal preparations, to the essences burning in the clay pot, spreading its fragrances in the air and to the children playing under her supervision.
15-NOV-2001
India, Devli, Rajahastan, November 2001
This was an organized tour. “Unusual Rajahastan” program proposed to show some of the lesser known places and overnight stay in maharajah and rajahs palaces from the less important states/regions. In the small town of Devli, close to Bundi, these three women take care of one of the age-old tasks in India: to collect wood for the fire.
24-NOV-2001
India, Ranakpur, Rajahstan, November 2001
At the end of the day a cool breeze blows and the men, only the men, line up near the houses. The brightly colored turbans “called” me. I approached this man with an imposing mustache who exuded authority. After exchanging glances, with a slight nod he allowed me to take his photo. Afterward, a mutual smile sealed our complicity.
08-MAR-2002
Cuba, Havana, March 2002
Cuba’s capital city is a monumental town that lost its glory in the 50s. Tough degraded by decades of neglect, Havana’s buildings still stand proud. Strolling by the streets of this city is like diving in the past. We are surprised at every corner. Here a classical American car seems to be painted an improbable blue to match the building where it’s parked for good.
21-MAR-2002
Cuba, Trinidad, March 2002
Most of the great colonial houses in town have wide windows in the Spanish style, which, when open, allow a view of the living room. From the outside, this room seemed irresistible. I decided to knock and ask if I could take a photo. Somewhat disappointed for not being a client, the owner Lidice Zeuera Mauri agrees on posing for the photo and confided: “You know, this house was built by my grandfather, he had a tobacco factory and we lived well. Nowadays, I rent two bedrooms, it’s the only way to keep my house, but I still have no right to a phone line. I only get customers when my neighbor, who has a phone, has no vacancies”.
10-MAR-2003
Argentina, Viedma Glacier, Patagonia, 2003
Close to the small town of Chálten, Viedma Glacier, humbled by its famous brother Perito Moreno Glacier, gets relatively few visitors. After a boat trip on Viedma Lake where we learn how to use the crampons that will allow us to walk safely on the ice, we arrive at last at the glacier that, as so many others, is shrinking. After walking over the thin ice, avoiding bottomless crevasses and having drunk a whiskey (with natural glacier ice) we are in for a strange experience: we enter a lateral fissure and enter a cave bathed in an intense blue light whose roof is formed by ice of the glacier itself.
21-MAR-2003
Argentina, Buenos Aires, March 2003
Caminito in Bairro La Boca is one of city’s major tourist attractions. But it wasn’t always like this. In the beginnings, it was the place where the poorest immigrants lived, where disreputable houses abounded and where danger lurked in every corner. With the oil strike all this area was regenerated and the artist Benito Quinquela Martin transformed La Boca in a colorful place that attracts all kind of artists. The cat in the photo goes through its daily routine: watching tourists strike a pose in front of the brightly painted walls.
03-APR-2005
China, Tibet, Ganden Monastery, April 2005
For a moment the snow stops falling. I grab the opportunity to explore the entrance to the temples complex, a true city. The brightly colored prayer sheets were in display awaiting the devout buyer. While I composed the photo, I noticed a monk approaching: it was only a matter of waiting for the right moment. This monastery, founded in 1409, had more than 2000 monks on the 50s. Bombed twice and reduced to rubble, it has been rebuilt with the donations of the faithful.
14-APR-2005
China, Tibet, Shigatse, April 2005
Basic maintenance and cleaning tasks are performed by the younger monks. It is an unseen, but vital work. This monk from Tashilhunpo monastery walks in the shadow, his broom on his back, trying not to be seen. When caught by the camera, he smiles.
16-SEP-2005
Egypt, Alexandria, September 2005
At the end of the afternoon in the fading sunlight I walk in Montazah beach, in Alexandria’s east area. Women are allowed the pleasure of bathing as long as they do it decently, that is, fully clothed. These two, choose to lounge in plastic chairs, enjoying the rising tide while watching their children.
23-SEP-2005
Egypt, Balat, September 2005
The oasis route west of the Nile, is a place usually overlooked by tourists who prefer to visit the splendors of Nile Valley Ancient Civilization. Over the last centuries few things changed on medieval Balat’s alleys. Exploring them is an experience not to be missed. I tried to visit the mosque but I was not allowed. I waited around until the mosque’s caretaker left. I tried talking to him but he wouldn’t have any of it and covered his ears!
22-NOV-2005
New Zealand, Karekare Beach, November 2005
Set of the famous Jane Campion’s movie, The Piano. This beach is an obvious destination after visiting Auckland. The rain threatened and the wind blew strongly when we left the car. Its strength increased as we approached the deserted beach. The dry sand swirled as the wind blew and drew odd patterns on the dark wet sand canvas left by the low tide. Those drawings suggested giant bird wings that disappeared whenever we walked. Later the sky darkened, the rain started pouring and we had to get to the car on the run.
13-DEC-2005
New Zealand, Rotorua, December 2005
We could smell the sulfur even before had sighting Rotorua. Here the earth’s crust is thin, making it possible to observe multiple geologic expressions of volcanic activity. Champagne Pool in Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland is undoubtedly one of the major attractions of this area. A vast boiling green water pool, decorated with a bright orange shore inhabited by thermophilic algae. The boiling water releases gas bubbles like a just opened champagne bottle.
30-MAY-2006
United States of America, Alaska, Harding Ice Field, May 2006
The real dimension and beauty of Alaska’s landscape can only be fully enjoyed from the air. Each of the three flights I’ve done in Alaska was an adventure in itself. The first one was in Seward and it was perhaps the most striking one, as I couldn’t foresee what awaited me, either visually or thermally. Ten minutes into the flight I was no longer feeling my hands.
02-JUN-2006
United States of America, Alaska, Matanuska Glacier, June 2006
Imagine a glacier so convenient that the car park is only 100 meters away! Even better: a glacier where we you are left on your own without any restrictions imposed by the Rangers. Here the only limitation is our own good judgment. And you should really have it because the danger is there. I enjoyed it so much that I came back two weeks later.
08-OCT-2006
Lybia, Idahan, Ubari, October 2006
We had been away from civilization for a week adopting the frugality of those living in inhospitable areas. On the last day the daily hygiene, for two, was done with less than a full bottle of water! At each stop we quickly got out of the cars to roam the wilderness of the desert. Our Berber guides stayed close to the cars chatting, discretely alert. On those moments they were the watchmen of the largest playground I’ve been in.
09-OCT-2006
Lybia, Gebraoun, October 2007
When we less expected the water appeared as a miracle. Most Ubari area lakes have been disappearing but some of them insist on showing in all splendor. With a strong evaporation, the water, here, is saltier than in the Dead Sea. Swimming is an almost impossible task as the body is pushed out the water what prevents the effectiveness of movements. If we have wounds and excoriations a bath should be avoided as it burns too much. Opening the eyes under the water is out of the question.
26-JAN-2007
Guatemala, Antigua, January 2007
Antigua is rightfully regarded as one of the most beautiful colonial towns of the Americas. Part of its charm is due to its location close to three dormant volcanoes that dominate the skyline, compelling us to a respectful and humble posture. The town’s ambiance is further enhanced by many inhabitants who still wear traditional clothing. This woman, with her child in tow seems unsure about which direction to take, just like most Central American countries.
28-JAN-2007
Guatemala, Chichicastenango, January 2007
This small sleepy town awakens twice a week for the local market. It is then literally invaded by merchants and buyers, coming from all over the province as well as by tourists eager to witness the activity that still go on nowadays, as it did centuries ago.
09-NOV-2007
Australia, William Bay National Park, November 2007
The coast of Denmark region is known for the beauty of its beaches. One of the prettiest is the Green Pool Beach. I got up at sunrise to photograph it at low tide and to be alone. Surprisingly, arriving at the beach, I saw that I wasn’t the first one. Some elderly swimmers bravely ventured in the cold waters for their morning exercise. They gave a human scale to the image and I must confess I was a little jealous of their courage and, mostly, of their quality of life for being able to daily enjoy such a beautiful place.
24-NOV-2007
Australia, Kangaroo Island, November 2007
On the island’s southeast coast, in Flinders Chase National Park, we found the Remarkable Rocks. On the rounded promontory by the sea, gigantic granitic blocks spread out with shapes that seem imagined by a modern sculptor. It´s hard to understand the origin of these huge rocks, how they were formed and how got there. Nature’s creation power is boundless.
27-MAY-2008
Indonesia, Bromo, Java Island, May 2008
We left the hotel at 4 a.m., still dark. We traveled for more than one hour through the Sand Sea, at the base of the big caldera that encompasses several volcanoes. Our final destination was Gunung Penanjakam view point at 2770 m of altitude. Thoroughly numbed by freezing temperatures we waited the slow appearance of the dawn. Little by little we began seeing shapes; the Sand Sea still shrouded in fog, the perfect Batok cone, the ever steaming Bromo and, in the background, like a conductor, the highest peak of all, Semeru, regularly spewing glowing ashes: the perfect volcanic landscape.
04-JUN-2008
Indonesia, Nanga Penda, Flores Island, June 2008
Traditional Japanese gardens are famous for their minimalistic design and also for the colors of their pebbles. On this beach, close to Ende, on the south coast of Flores Island, the black sand is literally covered with blue pebbles. Hundreds of locals sift through the sand in search of the perfect shape and color stone. The best ones are underground. Everyday tons of stones are collected and later exported to Japan.
30-SEP-2008
United States of America, Wyoming , Yellowstone National Park, Grand Prismatic Spring, September 2008
It took us some time to discover a sort of a trail that allowed us to climb the steep slope to the top of the hill. The reward was in sight; a terrific overview to the park’s biggest thermal spring. The steaming deep blue water contrasted the striped bright orange patterns drawn by the algae growing there because of the high temperatures and high mineral concentrations.
09-OCT-2008
United States of America, Paria, Coyotte Buttes North, The Wave, October 2008
In order to preserve this location, only 20 visitors a day are allowed to trek to the Wave. The first 10 are drafted in an Internet lottery held 4 months before. The other 10 are drafted between people applying daily at the Rangers station, 60 km from Page. In 2004, when I first knew about these formations, I had no luck in the daily lots. In 2008, I was not contemplated in the Internet draft. Even so, I decided to take a chance. Only in the 3rd and last trip to the Ranger station did I hit the jackpot. The photo explains eloquently the reason of so much work to get the entry permit and the three hours hike, over unmarked trails, to the Wave. Some of the lucky ones that obtain the craved permit fail to see this location because they manage to get lost in the trails…
This photo won the first prize of the section «People» of the 2009 Portuguese National Geographic Photo Contest.
26-DEC-2008
Portugal, Alentejo Coast, Alteirinhos Beach, December 2008
From the top of the cliffs between Alteirinhos and Zambujeira do Mar beaches the view is superb. The sun in the background turns the receding waters seeping into the sand to mirrors. Everything gets a silvery sheen as these three characters come along. I wait for the right moment as the water sparkles.
18-OCT-2009
Portugal, Vicentina Coast, Barriga Beach, October 2009
Friendship is built little by little and complicity moments are its foundation. When we feel the need to stop, sit down, wonder at what surrounds us and let our thoughts wander it is important that whomever is with us comes along. This moment of understanding proves that our best friend is not always human.
14-SEP-2009
Turkey, Istanbul, September 2009
The right time and place to take a break at the end of the day is near the entrance of the Galata Bridge. Just to have a friendly chat, to have a refreshing drink or simply to take a break and watch the bustle, the riverside restaurants and the boats moving across the two shores. On the background is the impressive Yeni Camii mosque.
19-SEP-2009
Turkey, Goreme, September 2009
Goreme in Cappadocia is home to the world’s second largest daily gathering of hot air balloons. Every day, at sunrise, more than 60 balloons seem to sprout from the bizarre rock formations carved by natural erosion. Hundreds of tourists wonder at the experience that they’ll remember for the rest of their lives.