We had been away from civilization for a week adopting the frugality of those living in inhospitable areas. On the last day the daily hygiene, for two, was done with less than a full bottle of water! At each stop we quickly got out of the cars to roam the wilderness of the desert. Our Berber guides stayed close to the cars chatting, discretely alert. On those moments they were the watchmen of the largest playground I’ve been in.