This is the Murat I mosque, the oldest monumental Ottoman building which within its walls incorporated sections that in most külliyes are separate: the mosque and the medrese. It dates from 1365. Nearby is a hamam (bath house) and other elements of a külliye were close. The remains of Murat, who died on the battlefield in 1389 in Serbia was laid to rest in a türbe across the street. The architect was called “Frankish” by historian Celebi, but a guide I have refers to Italian influences, which I perceived myself at an earlier visit.

In December 2006 I passed the mosque and was much annoyed to find they were restoring it. Until one of the workers saw my camera and asked me if I would like to see the restoration in progress. Would I? Yes, of course. I did some wild climbing through semi-dark corridors but in the end found myself on the roof and getting a thorough impression of what the mosque is like. I heartily thank the “usta”, I will send the pictures to his mail address tomorrow. I also hope to see him on other spots, he explained how specialists like him travel from one major mosque to the next.

The roof was covered with slabs of lead. But directly under it was not, as I expected, stone, but first a layer of çamur (mud, seemingly with some straw mixed in).