This is the Murat I mosque (also called Hüavendigar (meaning SUltan) mosque), the oldest monumental Ottoman building which within its walls incorporated sections that in most külliyes are separate: the mosque and the medrese. It dates from 1365. Nearby is a hamam (bath house) and other elements of a külliye were close. The remains of Murat, who died on the battlefield in 1389 in Serbia was laid to rest in a türbe across the street. The architect was called “Frankish” by historian Celebi, but a guide I have refers to Italian influences, which I perceived myself at an earlier visit.

In another book I read that the medrese is on the first floor, where we are now. To use a mosque as a school used to be the rule before separate medreses were designed, often near the mosque, but rarely, as here, within it. Here we are on that floor, in the medrese area.

In December 2006 I passed the mosque and was much annoyed to find they were restoring it. Until one of the workers saw my camera and asked me if I would like to see the restoration in progress. Would I? Yes, of course. I did some wild climbing through semi-dark corridors but in the end found myself on the roof and getting a thorough impression of what the mosque is like. I heartily thank the “usta”, I will send the pictures to his mail address tomorrow. I also hope to see him on other spots, he explained how specialists like him travel from one major mosque to the next.

These are some shots. To get to the roof I had to climb the ladder, step on the two wooden poles, and then enter a hole to the left (into utter darkness). What one has to do to get a decent shot ....