Ceremonial winter kaftan. Silk and gold threat brocade (‘kemha’). Decorated with two vertical twisting and overlapping branches and large leaves. Lined with fur. Ottoman work, 1550-1600.
The garment is thought to have maybe belonged to Şehzade (prince) Beyazıt (1525-1561), a son of Süleyman I the Magnificent.

Sultan and Princes kaftans were mostly made of heavy brocade with metal thread classed as ‘kemha’ - a closely woven fabric which was extremely stiff and difficult to tailor, but was preferred for ceremonial occasions as it gave the impression of rigid immobility in the wearer, and encouraged the stiff deportment expected of sultans.

When a sultan died, his ceremonial wardrobe was added to the Treasure of the Palace. That is why these old garments are so well-preserved. Some other pieces were recovered from Imperial mausolea, where they covered the cenotaph sarcophagi of princes or sultans.

Correspondent: J.M.Criel, Antwerpen.
Sources: ‘Land of Civilizations, Turkey’ – Catalogue of the Fukuoka Exhibition (Japan), 1985
& Website of ‘exploreturkey.com’ .