Ereğli – the first city after Şile I visited along the Black Sea coast going East - is the old Herakleia Pontike, founded 560 BC bij Greeks from Megara. The city remained predominantly Greek until 1922. In the first century BC it sided with Mithridates of Pontus in his struggle against the Romans. Cotta, general of Lucullus, had the city razed to the ground. After it was rebuilt it became a Roman garrison town. Xenophon describes it as an important port in his Anabasis. He also refers to Heracles’ venture into the underworld that was supposed to have taken place here. He there killed Cerberus, the three headed dog guarding the underworld. And Im sorry, because it was very hot which made me lazy, and also because I have seen caves before, I did not visit any of the caves that lead to the underworld or are ancient religious sites (you will find some three indicated in travelguides as worthwhile but wel, ....).

Despite these ancient stories the city now looks just modern, with a few old houses, one of them housing a good museum, at least one 5th-6th century church, now a mosque, and a delightful series of parks along the sea front. I had great fun at the markets too, and used the city as a basis to visit nearby Zonguldak, Akçakoca and Alaplı (pictures coming later). Life was relaxed here, and seemed to be good to many of its citizens.

As usual, some credits will follow later, I may do some rearranging too.

Note: there is another Ereğli (also Herakleia, though “in Cappadocia” this time), between Konya and Adana. This is not it. I have not been there (yet).