On February 17, 2007 I spent several hours in Sandanski - just twenty kilometers off the Greek-Bulgarian border, at the foot of Mount Pirin. Sandanski, a town of about 30,000 people, boasts having the best climate in Bulgaria - along with mineral springs -, thus being a recreation centre. Moreover, its proximity to the Greek border and the substantially lower prices make it a famous shopping destination for northern Greeks. A stroll around its main street, however, reveals a very sad, grey atmosphere behind the attractive window panes: a feeling of abandonment and derelict infrastructure.