Rarely have I been as tired on a long ride as I was when I rolled into Lukachukai. With my legs feeling like blocks of wood, and the climb to Buffalo Pass just ahead - 2,000 feet or so with a series of grades that reached at least 16% - I wondered if I'd have to accept a ride in the van. (I also wonder why I'm willing to show this photograph, made, I believe, by Kansas).

However, chomping down a violently salty Navajo pickle, downing half a bottle of Gatorade, resting 15 minutes or so, and ingesting two electrolyte tablets, compliments of Dominick, brought me back from the edge.