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Dave Collier | profile | all galleries >> Karakoram Trek 2006, Baltistan, North Pakistan - In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods tree view | thumbnails | slideshow | map

Karakoram Trek 2006, Baltistan, North Pakistan - In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods

My wife, Claire, and I first saw pictures of the spectacular Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan, home to K2 the world’s second highest peak, a number of years ago. In July this year we left a hot England to arrive in an even hotter Islamabad (45°C) from where we started our journey to reach K2.
The first leg involved a 2 day minibus ride up the Karakoram Highway. As luck would have it the discomfort of the boneshaker ride was more than made up for by the views. The narrow road follows the raging torrents of the Braldu River, which comes from the Baltoro Glacier and carves its way down the valley. At Askole the road stopped. Three days walking on fairly good trails brought us to Paiju at the foot of the massive 75km long Baltoro Glacier. For the next 6 days the walking became tougher as the glacier dominated our lives. Most mountains below 7000m are deemed too insignificant to be named here (!) and the true giants are in the 7000-8000m league. All the names we had only dreamed about seeing suddenly towered above us – Trango Towers, Cathedral, and Masherbrum. By the time we reached Concordia, our final camp at 5000m, we were surrounded by even more legendary summits – Broad Peak, the Gasherbrums, Mitre Peak and finally K2 herself, her almost unnatural symmetry rising 8611m from a sea of glacier and rock. The view from Concordia is often referred to as “Throne Room of the Mountain Gods”, and it certainly humiliated us into insignificance as we spent a day trekking closer to K2 base camp. From here we followed our footsteps back to the relative comforts of walking off the glacier and to civilisation. As well as the mountains we will always remember Pakistan for its people. Throughout the trek we were looked after by a guide, a team of cooks and porters who carried kit bags, put up our tents, cooked wonderful meals, and brought us tea. They were full of good humour and mostly spoke good English.
Our recommendation is that this trek should be on your list of “things to do before you die” if you love mountains – and don’t believe the negative media hype about Islamic countries like Pakistan!
THE PEOPLE: Everywhere we went we enjoyed the hospitality of the Balti people, but we're most grateful to those who accompanied us as guide (Nazir Hussain of Karakoram Explorers) porters and kitchen staff. Logistically it would have been impossible without them. Nazir's experience of the region, leading groups and coordinating the entourage of staff meant that everything ran smoothly - and more importantly he conducted it all with a sense of adventure and fun.
THE TREKKING COMPANY: For more information about Nazir's company visit http://www.karakorumexplorers.com.pk
THE ROUTE: Driving up the Karakoram Highway (KKH) to Skardu, jeeping to Tendeli followed by trekking through Baltistan from Tendeli - Askoli - Gorofon - Scarmansok - Paiju - onto the Baltoro Glacier - Liligo - Khobortse - Gore 1 - Concordia - Broad Peak base camp - Gore 2 - Urdokas - Paiju - Jola - Tendeli.
PHOTOGRAPHIC KIT: All shots taken with "Canon 5D" and either "EF 24-105 f/4L IS" or "EF 200mm f/2.8L" lenses.
POST PROCESSING: RAW conversion in PS CS2, cropping down to websize, subsequent conversion to LAB colour space, slight colour corrections and sharpening in LAB colour space, followed by final conversion back to RGB colour space.
Faisal Mosque under tropical clouds
Faisal Mosque under tropical clouds
Faisal Mosque - very hot and about to rain
Faisal Mosque - very hot and about to rain
Faisal Mosque close up
Faisal Mosque close up
Abbottobad - daily life going on
Abbottobad - daily life going on
Vegetable stall in Abbottobad
Vegetable stall in Abbottobad
Butchers in Abbottobad
Butchers in Abbottobad
Cow on the Roof in Besham
Cow on the Roof in Besham
Life on the Edge
Life on the Edge
Karkoram Highway
Karkoram Highway
Tributary feeding fresh water into the rapids
Tributary feeding fresh water into the rapids
Indus meandering along the Karakoram Highway
Indus meandering along the Karakoram Highway
Dusk
Dusk
Dusk B&W
Dusk B&W
Young wannabe trader
Young wannabe trader
Future generation of Balti men
Future generation of Balti men
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Early sunrise in Chilas
Early sunrise in Chilas
Chilas
Chilas
Angel Cloud
Angel Cloud
Desert shadows
Desert shadows
Dry & extremeley hot
Dry & extremeley hot
The only way to cross the river
The only way to cross the river
Our air conditioned bus for the KKH journey
Our air conditioned bus for the KKH journey
Truck
Truck
Clash of ranges
Clash of ranges
Shop keeper & friend in Skardu
Shop keeper & friend in Skardu
Respecting culture (& getting very hot)
Respecting culture (& getting very hot)
Shopping in Skardu
Shopping in Skardu
Shigar Fort
Shigar Fort
Shigar Fort accomodation block
Shigar Fort accomodation block
Keeping the fort clean & tidy
Keeping the fort clean & tidy
Claire with Shigar valley behind her
Claire with Shigar valley behind her
Lunch break at Dassu
Lunch break at Dassu
Entering the realm of the 4x4
Entering the realm of the 4x4
Toyota Landcruisers
Toyota Landcruisers
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f82545688.3fdgcp5q.jpg Our first night's camp, Tendeli
Our first night's camp, Tendeli
Palace Hotel in Askole
Palace Hotel in Askole
Friendly Askole dwellers
Friendly Askole dwellers
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276309.g3OEMYX3.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276310.QaV0AAmj.jpg fluff in the sky
fluff in the sky
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276311.6BingLTn.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276312.xZdrjzEz.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276313.Gfy4eIG2.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276314.Yuw0Pv87.jpg Remains of a mule
Remains of a mule
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f72727299.iRQUxSW8.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276316.0LaI0JZW.jpg t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f72730186.OwgXfv9d.jpg
t5%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f66928309.EpsikrbE.jpg Chicken tonight?
Chicken tonight?
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f66851973.Cq9XidGR.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276318.Ds1sDdfZ.jpg Ralph
Ralph
View of Paiju
View of Paiju
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276320.zp1AyiXA.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276321.sE7khcfX.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276322.bPMoLptV.jpg Mandu Peak
Mandu Peak
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276324.sg854lBW.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276325.ApPJVajM.jpg Masood at base of Paiju
Masood at base of Paiju
Paiju Peak, early morning
Paiju Peak, early morning
Paiju
Paiju
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276327.rcvfLQ2h.jpg Baltoro spied from Paiju
Baltoro spied from Paiju
Snout of the Baltoro glacier
Snout of the Baltoro glacier
face of the Baltoro
face of the Baltoro
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276328.VeoKpLp0.jpg
So, where are we?
So, where are we?
Serac field
Serac field
Great Trango
Great Trango
Great Trango closer
Great Trango closer
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276330.NnijHIq2.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276331.0m9ouTr9.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276332.bE3gU8xw.jpg Rocks falling into crevace
Rocks falling into crevace
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f72999797.mFs1wMPk.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276334.04nN6HCN.jpg
Gimme shelter >45°C
Gimme shelter >45°C
Near Urdokas
Near Urdokas
Lunch time
Lunch time
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276336.jop46Ehl.jpg Cathedral sandbasin
Cathedral sandbasin
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276337.PDXIk9zR.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276338.62UMEsTO.jpg Trango Spires
Trango Spires
Trango Spires
Trango Spires
A place to rest
A place to rest
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276340.ToDRmN41.jpg Khobortse porters pose
Khobortse porters pose
Poking though the clouds
Poking though the clouds
Cathedral Spires
Cathedral Spires
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276342.Xc14lW2G.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276344.05lgqj8Y.jpg Paiju Peak
Paiju Peak
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276345.AopasVY0.jpg t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f79504935.rGw2ockt.jpg Uli Biaho
Uli Biaho
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276347.AvjC3fdb.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276348.iXWpwRtY.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276349.nsCgQHtH.jpg Cathedral Pano
Cathedral Pano
Cathedral presides over the rocky barren wastes
Cathedral presides over the rocky barren wastes
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276350.1Xtof9ke.jpg t5%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f68130807.X4YUUL6i.jpg t5%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f68130809.8VC5YC3Y.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276351.4tflWtCv.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276352.jzWKTs2c.jpg
pano of Baltoro after Urdokas
pano of Baltoro after Urdokas
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276353.1we1CiCL.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276354.VUFD6CBx.jpg melting glacier
melting glacier
Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276355.ObPW8ehl.jpg Ice walking
Ice walking
Serac poking up through the Baltoro Glacier
Serac poking up through the Baltoro Glacier
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276356.TD9aCjMp.jpg Masherbrum summit
Masherbrum summit
Nasir with AK47s
Nasir with AK47s
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276358.N69PXLKA.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276359.LadOe4Ec.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276360.UnRyU775.jpg porters at Gore 1
porters at Gore 1
Young porter
Young porter
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276361.1j8duHM7.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276362.fSKSkdpb.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276363.KFOHWyQd.jpg View back down the Baltoro from Concordia.jpg
View back down the Baltoro from Concordia.jpg
Balti Man at Concordia
Balti Man at Concordia
Volleyball at 5000m
Volleyball at 5000m
Biarchedi
Biarchedi
Mucking about at Concordia
Mucking about at Concordia
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276365.b1Tq20LS.jpg
Base of G IV
Base of G IV
Looking down Baltoro
Looking down Baltoro
Campsite with a View (Concordia)
Campsite with a View (Concordia)
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276367.N3Euf7Cd.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276368.IKDBC4jg.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276369.AilkUnif.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276370.k1pFrprh.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276371.fEcFqG2d.jpg Sun rise over Broad Peak
Sun rise over Broad Peak
Trekking to K2
Trekking to K2
At the foot of K2
At the foot of K2
Storm blowing on Broad Peak
Storm blowing on Broad Peak
K2 in all her glory
K2 in all her glory
High winds on K2
High winds on K2
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276379.BElQ2mWD.jpg
Russian Camp
Russian Camp
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f86765612.IP9Zozj3.jpg Claire on the Godwin-Austin glacier
Claire on the Godwin-Austin glacier
A Tent with a View
A Tent with a View
Claire & K2
Claire & K2
Cristal Peak
Cristal Peak
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f79504942.BnGiRrNu.jpg Made it to Concordia!
Made it to Concordia!
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276385.ZEWXPGDC.jpg Mitre Peak and our base camp
Mitre Peak and our base camp
Military mules
Military mules
Diligent Lucy
Diligent Lucy
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276389.Smud3twA.jpg Mitre Peak Summit
Mitre Peak Summit
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276394.NRkEYbwM.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276396.zsuA1Nc0.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276399.gNUv37J4.jpg Chogolisa
Chogolisa
K2
K2
K2 dwarfing Claire
K2 dwarfing Claire
Lucy
Lucy
K2
K2
Porter victory salute at Concordia
Porter victory salute at Concordia
Salute under K2
Salute under K2
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f78394103.DRMItPXt.jpg
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f78395152.na1DISj5.jpg Mehdi burning camp litter
Mehdi burning camp litter
Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f79504941.Hbs26kLq.jpg G IV at dunset
G IV at dunset
G IV sunrise
G IV sunrise
Mitre Peak summit
Mitre Peak summit
Gore 2 camp
Gore 2 camp
KKE kitchen
KKE kitchen
Baltoro Masherbrum view
Baltoro Masherbrum view
The mighty Muztagh Tower
The mighty Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
Masherbrum (White Trigger)
Masherbrum (White Trigger)
Masherbrum
Masherbrum
Masherbrum sunset
Masherbrum sunset
Gore 2 camp view at night time.jpg
Gore 2 camp view at night time.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276419.hOXLCsLD.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276421.AEWPntBd.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276422.bdnqH7pS.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276423.2P0peOFd.jpg
Light show
Light show
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276424.DWwJE5dj.jpg Paiju Peak and Uli Biaho at sunset
Paiju Peak and Uli Biaho at sunset
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276425.Gzbgp8QE.jpg Mules on Baltoro Glacier
Mules on Baltoro Glacier
Uli Biaho
Uli Biaho
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276426.Js1Y7dbE.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276427.Y7nf7LkH.jpg Paiju Peak and Uli Biaho
Paiju Peak and Uli Biaho
Sandy section of Baltoro Glacier
Sandy section of Baltoro Glacier
Nasir & Claire on way between Urdokas and Paiju
Nasir & Claire on way between Urdokas and Paiju
Paiju Peak and Trango
Paiju Peak and Trango
Trango Tower
Trango Tower
Paiju Peak
Paiju Peak
The Trango Tower
The Trango Tower
About to descend off the Baltoro Glacier
About to descend off the Baltoro Glacier
Snout of the Baltoro Glacier
Snout of the Baltoro Glacier
Arriving back on solid ground
Arriving back on solid ground
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276440.rtivEw8s.jpg t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276442.UdYDcxAW.jpg
Claire next to the Braldu River
Claire next to the Braldu River
roped stream crossing
roped stream crossing
claire on rope
claire on rope
Keep going and don't stop
Keep going and don't stop
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f78396358.IhGHzpiA.jpg
t1%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f65276444.JYa31pIo.jpg First signs of civilisation outside Askole
First signs of civilisation outside Askole
Bukordas
Bukordas
Askole dwellings
Askole dwellings
Leaving Askole
Leaving Askole
t6%2f68%2f371768%2f4%2f79504944.QZ9aXFxT.jpg Toyota Landcruiser
Toyota Landcruiser
Jeeps cross bridge
Jeeps cross bridge
Dassu sunflower
Dassu sunflower
rear view from jeep in mirror
rear view from jeep in mirror
Josef
Josef
Tendeli camp site landlord
Tendeli camp site landlord
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Nearing Skardu
Nearing Skardu
Skardu hotel view
Skardu hotel view
Skardu
Skardu
Electrical safety - or lack of it!
Electrical safety - or lack of it!
The long and winding road
The long and winding road
Driving past drying apricots
Driving past drying apricots
Truck cleaning in progress
Truck cleaning in progress
Last day in Islamabad in the old bazaar
Last day in Islamabad in the old bazaar
Anyone for dates?
Anyone for dates?
Downtown Islamabad
Downtown Islamabad
Addendum to K2 trek
:: Addendum to K2 trek ::