On 28 May 2011, Rahil commenced a road journey that took him from Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir to Leh, a distance of about 450 kms. He was accompanied by his and five other families, totalling eleven kids.

Day One (May 28th) began with his first shakira (water taxi) ride to a houseboat, the Royal Palace, on Dal Lake in Srinagar. Highlights included meeting his friends, hunting for non-existent tadpoles, a group lunch at the magnificent Grand Palace Hotel, and glimpsing fleeting views of fish, which he tried vainly to catch in an old water bottle. During the afternoon Nazir took all the kids for a ride ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnz4zEaFs3M).

Day Two (May 29th) commenced with a morning tour of Srinagar's Old Town, with its numerous bridges crossing the Jhelum River, its Sunday market, and its wide variety of masjids. To see what it's like to ride with a Nut Driver, watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eCdsEX8D0I. To see what appeared to be a respectful namaz morph into some gymnastics at the Jamia Masjid, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOSVxEVtLpA. After lunch, the group assembled and caravaned to Kollum, a small village about fifteen kms west of Sonamarg, where Rahil spent his first night ever in a tent safe and warm and comfortable. At the camp Rahil and many of the other kids inspected the raging Sindh River, played games, ran crazily, and endlessly chased an obliging hen. In the evening the group celebrated Imran's fifth birthday.

The entirety of Day Three (May 30th) was spent in Kollum. There was much chicken-chasing -- and catching -- as you'll see below. The group took a long walk (adults) and pony ride (kids) along the river and toured Katherine and Nazir's latest project, a luxurious, nearly-complete hotel. Some went fishing. (Click here to see Rahil fly fish for the first time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18wRAkBXP_k). Rahil made a ball disappear, at least according to him ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98X1P9pbcrw). At night the kids toasted marshmallows while the adults enjoyed wonderfully clear skies and an iPad app that helped them stargaze.

On Day Four (May 31st), Rahil's fifth birthday, the road trip began in earnest, but was quickly stymied in Sonamarg by a travel restriction that forbade vehicles from heading east until 11 am. Rahil and his friends made the most of the two-hour delay mostly by overturning thousands of rocks looking for (and finding) small lizards. At 10:57 am, traffic chaos ensued as several hundred cars, buses, minivans, trucks, and tankers jockeyed to leave through a small gate ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdtNH1N6Cag). Fortunately, Nazir had arranged for us to be near the front, but his foresight came to little because all several hundred vehicles quickly ground to a halt by road repairs on the treacherous approach to Zoji-la, an infamous pass dividing relatively lush Kashmir from the dry, arid desert plateau of Ladakh. Click here to get a sense of what the ascent was like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkr6ResGEVE. After another two-hour delay, our group, along with all other several hundred vehicles, reached Drass ("the second coldest inhabited place in the world") at exactly the same time, making finding a simple plate of dal and rice difficult. After a brief lunch break, the group sped on through Kargil, reaching the camp at Mulbek after dark. After dinner everyone celebrated Rahil's birthday.

Day Five (June 1st) began with Rahil splitting off from the main group so that he could accompany his Mom to Achinathang, the village where she did here fieldwork twenty years ago. After paying respects, Rahil carried on to Uletokpo (misspelled as "Uletopo" by the road sign painters), with its snug cabins and hot water. The team hiked down to the nearby Indus before dinner, resolving to return the following day en masse.

On Day Six (June 2nd), much of the group descended to a pristine and relatively large beach below the camp. Kids explored nooks and crannies, built sand canals, and waded. Parents simply relaxed. After lunch, we all departed for Leh, being forced to abandon plans to visit Alchi due to extortionate new taxi union rules.

Day Seven (June 3rd) marked the group's first full day in Leh. The group visited Tikse Monastery and fed fish at the Shey Holy Fish Pond ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HrhPdBAnWE). Rahil reunited with old friends, sought out as many animals as he could, and went to Shanti Stupa, which overlooks the town, for the sunset ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEETxYrUPSs).

On Day Eight (June 4th), Rahil joined everyone for lunch, following which much of the group visited LAMO, the Ladakh Arts and Media Organization ( http://lamo.org.in/). Rahil later trekked round town while his Dad rounded up several bottles of Gulbaden apple juice, a delicacy. In the evening, Rahil accompanied Tashi to toss rocks in the Indus at sunset.

Most of the group flew back to Delhi on Sunday, June 5th. To see what it's like to take off from one of the world's highest airports, with mountains both creepily close on both sides and above you as you ascend, click here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUCQcXBfCMk.

Thanks to all for such a wonderful trip!