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Circumnavigation of Skye, August 2011: Countess of Sleat

Log of the 'Countess of Sleat' (an Elan Impression 434 from Skye Yachts): August 31st July to 6th August 2011

30st August 2011 Saturday

Log 2852 nm

All arrived successfully, and boarded with what seemed a huge amount of gear and provisions including a pot of fresh Basil – much to the amusement of Charmian and Mark who I think must have wondered if we thought we were going on a canal boat! All successfully stowed, we ended up with Ruth and Steve in the forward cabin, Richard and Fred in the cabin with two bunks, Sarah and Shanta sharing the aft port cabin, although Sarah took to using the main cabin, and Helen and Jeremy the aft starboard cabin.
The tide was Ok to go up through the tidal gate of Kyle Rhea, and we motored through this splendid piece of water heading east into Loch Alsh and into Loch Duich passing the two starboard hand buoys, anchoring at Totaig, opposite Eilean Donan Castle.
A lovely spot, and fabulous introduction to the West Coast for those who haven't been before! We celebrated Freds birthday with bubbles and a fantastic chocolate cake with an almond icing - made by Fred and Joys daughter Katie. Dinner courtesy of Fred – warming and very delicious chilli con carne, definitely a standard setter!

Travelled 19nm motored


31st August - Sunday

Log 2873

Left Totaig after a lazy breakfast. Motored out to Eilean Donan Castle and then into Loch Alsh, past Kyle of Loch Alsh and under the Skye Bridge. Then we set some sails and anchored at the Crowlins for a lazy lunch. After lunch we motored to Acairseid Mhor on Rona. This popular anchorage in the upper section had eight yachts at anchor, so we anchored at 1845 just inside the entrance in 10m of water with 50 – 60m chain out. Dinner was made by Steve to Sarahs receipe and instruction: delicious chicken thighs on a bed on halved baby tomatoes with two bulbs of garlic and the whole tub of fresh basil. Mmmm!

Travelled 21.7nm sailed from north of Skye bridge to Caol Rona otherwise motored

1st August - Monday

Log 2873.7nm

Reanchored nearer the pontoon. Left Countess at 1130 for a walk to Dry Harbour, the ‘summit’ and Church Cave. The manager now charges £1 per head to come ashore and £5 per shower, we declined the latter. Back for lunch finding the stern uncomfortably close to the rocks moved off reanchoring at the same spot as the previous evening. Departed Acairseid Mhor at 1330. Motored to Loch Torridon via Caol Rona (eastern channel) anchoring in 7m water on a rising tide at Sheildaig.

Sarah prepared grilled mushrooms with garlic, and Venison Stew! I think we were setting new standards here!

Travelled 13.4nm motored

2nd August - Tuesday

Log 2887nm

In the face of a reasonable forecast and brilliant sunshine, we decided to circumnavigate Skye.
0600 forecast read:
24 hour forecast: Variable 2 or 3, increasing 4 at times. Slight or moderate. Showers. Good, occasionally poor. Outlook: Variable 2 or 3 becoming easterly or southeasterly 3 or 4, occasionally 5 later in south. Slight or moderate. Showers later. Moderate or good.
Departed 1010 arriving Loch Dunvegan 1715. Vey little wind so motored virtually all the way. Unfortunately it soon clouded over altho’ we only had rain once – in Loch Dunvegan itself. The pilotage into the Castle anchorage is as described. Switched to the forward water tank so no more showers.
We settled into the culinary routine to which we were becoming accustomed with Jeremy and Helen creating a superb Lamb Curry. I’m surprised we didn’t have tourists swimming out to the boat for a take away!

Travelled 37nm motored

3rd August - Wednesday

Log: 2924

Woke and breakfasted to a beautiful sunny morning. Two parties went off rowing, no Otters spotted despite being reassured by locals they were about! Went up to the Dunvegan Pier, at high water and without any trawlers, and refilled the water tanks – which seemed to take an age. Missed out on a good chocolate maker though – next time visit Janns Cakes! 01470 521730
Moved off for Loch Harport, not sure of time. Encountered a large pod of dolphins in Loch Dunvegan and spent time giving chase. Lovely beasts who I’m sure just play with yachts for fun! Rounded Dunvegan head, motored past Loch Pooltiel and past Neist Point LH. All very dramatic.
From Neist Point bearing 151° T until Arnaval bears 100° T (so skirting An Dubh-Sgeir rocks giving good views of MacLeods Maidens), follow until the Ardtreck Point small white tower bears 55° T.
This section was in lovely sunshine. Ruth enjoyed sitting in the bow ‘seat’!
We anchored off the Talisker Distillery in 5.8m water at almost low water on 50m chain. Had a perusal around Carbost – Jeremy and Helen took the tour! We admired a huge no of scarecrows!

Dinner of Bradan Rost, boiled new potatoes and courgettes.

Travelled 25nm motored

4th August - Thursday

Log: 2949nm

Off for Loch Scavaig, departing 1000 in light airs of 6kn. Dropped off so motored. Pain a visit to Port na Long, Loch Harport to look at the Lerwick registered wooden gaff cutter Ezra.
Motored past Loch Eynort and Loch Brittle up the Sound of Soay, arriving Loch na Cuilche ?time. Steve rather twitchy about depth as seemed less than expected and so didn’t join the shore parties to go to Loch Coruisk. Rain and midges I think prevailed!
We rowed around circumnavigating a small island in search of seals, collecting a lot of mussels en route! Richard spent a great deal of time preparing them, and they were great! Complete with pearls!

Dinner: Mussels, boiled ham and fresh fruit.

Travelled 20nm motored

5th August – Friday

Log 2969

Departed Loch na Cuilce and Loch Scavaig 1000 motoring out past rocks adorned with seals in all kinds of silly and unlikely (unless you’re a seal) poses! Windy so sailed on a single reefed main and reefed genoa giving a tankingly good sail out to the Sound of Rum and on to Muck for lunch. Anchored near the RoRo pier but now not very scenic, unfortunately!
Departed Muck 1515 motoring in through Eigg arriving Armadale around 1830 – 1900
Dinner mmm left overs probably, a time honoured dish!!

Distance run 35.8nm Tankingly good sail from Scavaig to Muck, motored thereafter

Total distance for the week 172nm

Engine hours 34.8



Route of Sleat Odyssey 18th to 25th August 2012

Route of Sleat Odyssey 18th to 25th August 2012




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Neist Point Light House 4
Neist Point Light House 4
Cuillins from outside An Dubh Skeir rocks
Cuillins from outside An Dubh Skeir rocks
Neist Point Light House 5
Neist Point Light House 5
Sarah and Fred
Sarah and Fred
Helen
Helen
Helen
Helen
Fred
Fred
Sarah
Sarah
Ruth
Ruth
Jeremy
Jeremy
Macleods maidens
Macleods maidens
Remember the tidal vector!
Remember the tidal vector!
Admiralty Chart on a GPS, Seaclear
Admiralty Chart on a GPS, Seaclear
Wiay
Wiay
Rubha nan Clach
Rubha nan Clach
Visitor from Norway
Visitor from Norway
Am Basteir with Sgurr nan Gillean
Am Basteir with Sgurr nan Gillean
Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean
Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean
Carbost, Loch Harport
Carbost, Loch Harport
Countess of Sleat, Loch Harport
Countess of Sleat, Loch Harport
Loch Harport
Loch Harport
Tallisker Distillery from Countess of Sleat
Tallisker Distillery from Countess of Sleat
Loch Coruisk (Photo by Sarah)
Loch Coruisk (Photo by Sarah)
Countess of Sleat in Loch na Cuilche photo by Sarah.jpg
Countess of Sleat in Loch na Cuilche photo by Sarah.jpg
A lot of water !!
A lot of water !!
Landing party
Landing party
Ruth and Jeremy, erm well best move on........
Ruth and Jeremy, erm well best move on........
..........something to do with the Scottish Midge!!
..........something to do with the Scottish Midge!!
Loch na Cuilce (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch na Cuilce (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch na Cuilce reflections (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch na Cuilce reflections (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Jeremys winning smile (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Jeremys winning smile (Photo by Sarah).jpg
and Ruths Photo by Sarah.jpg
and Ruths Photo by Sarah.jpg
Burn off the Cuillin
Burn off the Cuillin
g4/63/190063/3/137307729.XtMGjb83.jpg Anchorage north of En Reamhar
Anchorage north of En Reamhar
Loch na Cuilce bothy (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch na Cuilce bothy (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Countess of Sleat bows
Countess of Sleat bows
Hi gorgeous! (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Hi gorgeous! (Photo by Sarah).jpg
High and dry (Photo by Sarah).jpg
High and dry (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Wink (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Wink (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch Scavaig seals (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Loch Scavaig seals (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Smiling for the camera (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Smiling for the camera (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Ruth helming (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Ruth helming (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Wind (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Wind (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Good sailing! (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Good sailing! (Photo by Sarah).jpg
Thats the happy crew!
Thats the happy crew!
First reef
First reef
Shanta in pole position!
Shanta in pole position!
Route of the Countess of Sleat
Route of the Countess of Sleat
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