NOTE:
Congratulations are in order if you have read this entire tutorial up to here. Let's continue.........

*Here is a real-world account of someone who did the homework, obtained the proper cleaning tools, and finally had at it, with great success -
http://www.paintedstork.com/digiblog/blog.html . It just takes a few minutes to read, but it will show you the importance of the tips on this page and the next page (thanks so much, Arun).


These are a few points I would like to emphasize before you swab for the first time:

#1) Take your time, DON'T RUSH! There is no need to make a mad dash into the chamber with your moistened swab. It is MUCH more important for you to see exactly what you are doing, rather than worrying about dust getting into your camera. Your speed will naturally increase as you go on.
NOTE: I recommend waiting about 5 or 10 seconds after applying the Eclipse to begin swabbing. This will allow a good majority of the liquid to migrate away from the tip, making it less likely to streak. I used to remove the lens and then apply the Eclipse to my 'Swipe, but now, it works out perfectly to reverse these two steps.
So, your sequence will be: 1) lock up the mirror; 2) put the one or two drops of Eclipse on the 'Swipe's tip; 3) remove the lens; 4) swab the sensor; and, finally, 5) remount the lens, unlock the mirror, and turn the camera off.

#2) VISIBILITY is the key word in sensor swabbing. The highly reflective "mirrored" surface of the sensor makes it a real challenge to guide your SensorSwipe into the starting corner. This is just as difficult as trying to poke a fish in a pond with a stick. A good light is mandatory and be extra aware of the extremely small space you will have to negotiate the swab onto the sensor. Looking back on my first swabbing, I now realize I could have established a better orientation of where my head, my hand and the light were, BEFORE I went in to swab for the first time. This is why I strongly recommend doing a dry run with the lens off, just like you were going to swab. Experiment with the amount and position of your light source until you have the best view of the sensor possible. At present, I am using a 150W halogen drafting light ($40 at Staples); the ability to move and position it precisely where I want it (just like a dentist's light), and the true nature of the halogen gives me the best view of the sensor out of all the light set-ups I've tried. When I swab now, I know exactly where to position the light, off on a slight angle, soas my head and hand do not interfere with the light.
*Also, I cannot stress enough the need to be able to see clearly at close-up range. My eyes are about 8" to 12" away from the sensor when I swab, and it's absolutely necessary for me to wear my reading glasses at this distance.

#3) I have found that a 1" X 3" permanent address label to be the BEST way of securing the PecPad to my SensorSwipe; of course, scotch tape will work, too. DO NOT remove all of the PecPads from their wrapping. Cut a slit with a razor in the top of the package across the entire width. Then it's a matter of using tweezers or a forceps type of tool to extract one Pecpad while holding the rest in place. ALWAYS keep the package and your SensorSwipe in a zip-lock bag when not in use.

#4) MOST IMPORTANT TIP - DO A PRACTICE RUN: make your swab with the PecPad and put 1 or 2 drops of Eclipse on it just to see how the liquid is absorbed, then wipe a piece of glass or a jewel case with it. Hopefully, you'll see that this is a very BENIGN process which is made slightly difficult only by the very awkward positioning of the sensor in the chamber. You will also see how fast the Eclipse evaporates in back of the swab (from 1 to 3 seconds). This point is very important because I think a lot of the apprehension about sensor swabbing involves the thought of using a LIQUID to wipe the very intricate electronic sensor. A dry run will confirm that there is virtually NO chance of the Eclipse running or "puddling" on the sensor if you use no more than 2 or 3 drops.
IF YOU HAVE NEVER SWABBED A SENSOR BEFORE, A PRACTICE RUN IS MANDATORY!

#5) Take a couple of seconds to look at the CCD or CMOS. If you see any specks on your AA filter, try to blow them off with a bulb blower before you swab (remember, the spots in your images are actually dust particles too small for the naked eye to see). Once you begin to develope a D-SLR mindset, which stems from the fundamental differences between film and an imaging sensor, keeping foreign objects and dust out of the digital chamber becomes paramount. A CCD or CMOS does not have the luxury of a strip of fine brush hairs to collect the dust the way film does as it marches before the shutter curtain. In over two years now, I have NEVER seen a speck of any kind on my CCD.
NOTE: If you don't make the proper, substantial changes in how to care for your D-SLR, and remain disappointed, and even angry at the manufacturer for not having a solution to the dust situation at the present time, I suggest you bail out, sell your D-SLR and go back to film, where I'm sure you'll be very happy. There WILL come a day when we won't have to deal with dust, but for the time being, methanol swabbing is the best solution.

#6) I always remove and return the lens with the camera facing down, and I swab with the camera on a tripod at a 45° angle facing up. There is no need to be a contortionist by swabbing with the camera facing down (unless you're the kind of person who enjoys that sort of thing).

#7) I've been swabbing for quite a while now and I still enter the chamber with the utmost care and respect for the delicateness of the sensor's components. As you continue on with this process, I hope you can strike the perfect balance of total confidence in what you're doing with an appreciation of the sensor's precision construction.

#8) It has been my experience that cleaning an imaging sensor on a regular basis will greatly reduce the super-stuck dust accumulation. In other words, when these stubborn specks are left to sit on a CCD or CMOS, very similar to leaving that bug-splat on your windshield, they get harder to remove. Therefore, I recommend a methanol swabbing at least every two weeks for ALL D-SLRs. I also recommend washing your car once per season.

#9) If after swabbing a number of times you are still left with 2 or 3 specks of dust, close the camera up and go out and take some shots. Don't swab again for a day or two. Most often, these specks will be loosened after a number of cleaning sessions, so don't press your luck in the beginning. If these spots continue to remain on your sensor, and it is really upsetting to you, PLEASE send it back to the manufacturer for service. Don't get careless and force the issue by applying a pressure equal to a bowling ball. I want you to have a perfectly clean sensor, but, more importantly, I don't want you damaging your sensor, no matter what.

#10) After your first very successful swabbing, you may be like most people and say: "Is that all there is to sensor swabbing? That was so easy, I don't know why I waited this long to swab! Piece-O-Cake!" This dawning should tell you how simple this really is, but, more importantly, it should prove conclusively how ESSENTIAL it is to do the research, to assemble the proper tools and materials and to practice a number of times before you do the real thing. People who take this preparation for granted will most likely have a hard time. But if you continue swabbing with excellent results, be very aware of the dangers ahead of you . . . . . .
*WARNING*
Becoming proficient at this procedure may lead to an unusual phenomenon - an ADDICTION to sensor swabbing. It's accompanied by a relentless determination to maintain ZERO dust on your sensor. This stage I call - "Crossing Over". By the way, once you do cross over, you will NEVER need to revisit this tutorial again, except maybe to say hello. Seriously, though, please check back here from time to time, as I am constantly updating the information contained within.

#11) After crossing over, I don't want to hear any excuses from you - get out there and use the heck out of your D-SLR.

There are two common mistakes that many first-timers make:

#1) Using too much Eclipse, which may cause smearing or dark streaks in your images. Try to use no more than 2 drops at first. After you get some swabbings under your belt, you will eventually need only 1 drop (1Ds swabbers may need 2 drops on your 18 mm. 'Swipe).

#2) Not getting the swab "squarely" and "firmly" on the sensor's surface. This may be caused by some nervousness, trying to go too quickly or not being able to see what you're doing. What actually happens is that one corner of the swab will be lifted upwards and, consequently, will not be resting flush on the CCD or CMOS. If this happens, you may only remove half of the dust, which is still VERY good for the first time.

NOTE: The good thing about these mistakes is that they will be corrected with a successful swabbing.

And last, but not least, go have yourself a nice stiff drink, preferably, but not necessarily, after you swab.

Good luck everyone!
Nicholas