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Cathryn | profile | all galleries >> Laos 2009 >> 3 Downriver tree view | thumbnails | slideshow

1 Luang Prabang | 2 Upriver | 3 Downriver

3 Downriver

The downriver journey followed the same pattern as upriver: from Phongsali to Muang Khua on the first day; from Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw on the second day; then (after a day in Nong Khiaw) downriver to Luang Prabang.
Because of its remote location, getting away from Phongsali is not easy. Flights to/from Vientiane have been discontinued, and the alternatives are returning by boat or catching a bus to Oudomxai (Muang Xai; 11 hours) or Luang Prabang. Long-distance Lao bus journeys can be very uncomfortable so returning by boat was much more appealing.
Phongsali would be a good place to spend an extra day to break up your riverboat travel. I thought of it but had already arranged to spend my extra day at Nong Khiaw, so back I went downriver after only one night.
Phongsali, the most remote major town in Laos
Phongsali, the most remote major town in Laos
Market, Phongsali, where I went for breakfast
Market, Phongsali, where I went for breakfast
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
Market, Phongsali
House near market, Phongsali
House near market, Phongsali
Sawngthiew from Phongsali to Hat Sa - looking back
Sawngthiew from Phongsali to Hat Sa - looking back
Goodbye to Hat Sa
Goodbye to Hat Sa
Heading downriver
Heading downriver
River scenery
River scenery
Fast boat roars upstream
Fast boat roars upstream
River scenery
River scenery
Boatman (centre) haggling over fish
Boatman (centre) haggling over fish
... big fish
... big fish
Protracted negotiations
Protracted negotiations
Weighing the fish
Weighing the fish
At last, money changes hands
At last, money changes hands
Nearby village
Nearby village
Family on river
Family on river
River scenery
River scenery
Work party
Work party
River scenery
River scenery
Moored boat
Moored boat
River scenery
River scenery
Fast boat roars out of my picture
Fast boat roars out of my picture
Tatty boat
Tatty boat
Little girl protesting at having her hair washed, Muang Khua
Little girl protesting at having her hair washed, Muang Khua
Hotel Sernnaly, Muang Khua
Hotel Sernnaly, Muang Khua
View from Hotel Sernnaly
View from Hotel Sernnaly
Anonymous cafe, Muang Khua
Anonymous cafe, Muang Khua
Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw (aka Muang Ngoi)
Muang Khua to Nong Khiaw (aka Muang Ngoi)
Main street, Muang Khua, early in morning
Main street, Muang Khua, early in morning
Grandma's heart starter, 8 a.m., Muang Khua
Grandma's heart starter, 8 a.m., Muang Khua
Colourful girl, Muang Khua
Colourful girl, Muang Khua
Intrepid traveller ready for adventure
Intrepid traveller ready for adventure
Boat landing, early morning, Muang Khua
Boat landing, early morning, Muang Khua
Goodbye to Muang Khua
Goodbye to Muang Khua
A crowded boat
A crowded boat
At least I'm comfortable!
At least I'm comfortable!
Looking back as we head downriver
Looking back as we head downriver
Riverbank scene
Riverbank scene
River scenery
River scenery
Lone boatman
Lone boatman
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
Bovine bliss - water buffalo on riverbank
Bovine bliss - water buffalo on riverbank
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
Paddling furiously
Paddling furiously
Riverbank
Riverbank
River scenery
River scenery
Three Lao in a boat
Three Lao in a boat
Muang Ngoi, where most passengers left the boat
Muang Ngoi, where most passengers left the boat
Fish out of water
Fish out of water
Moored boats
Moored boats
Sandy bank where we stopped briefly
Sandy bank where we stopped briefly
Tourists in privately chartered boat
Tourists in privately chartered boat
Longtail boats moored
Longtail boats moored
River scenery
River scenery
Ready for anything
Ready for anything
Blissful boating
Blissful boating
Sunset Guesthouse, Nong Khiaw (centre)
Sunset Guesthouse, Nong Khiaw (centre)
View from balcony, Sunset Guesthouse
View from balcony, Sunset Guesthouse
Not enjoying my first experience of a hammock
Not enjoying my first experience of a hammock
View from guesthouse with morning clouds
View from guesthouse with morning clouds
House, Nong Khiaw
House, Nong Khiaw
Street, Nong Khiaw
Street, Nong Khiaw
House, Nong Khiaw
House, Nong Khiaw
View, Nong Khiaw
View, Nong Khiaw
Buddhist temple - Wat Sop Houn, Nong Khiaw
Buddhist temple - Wat Sop Houn, Nong Khiaw
Interior, Wat Sop Houn
Interior, Wat Sop Houn
Door, Wat Sop Houn
Door, Wat Sop Houn
Relaxed Lao, Nong Khiaw
Relaxed Lao, Nong Khiaw
Nong Khiaw (aka Muang Ngoi) to Luang Prabang
Nong Khiaw (aka Muang Ngoi) to Luang Prabang
Waiting for the boat to leave
Waiting for the boat to leave
Monk grabs paddle to help boatman manoevre
Monk grabs paddle to help boatman manoevre
Karst formation with cave
Karst formation with cave
Canoe on river
Canoe on river
Heading downstream
Heading downstream
Moored longtail boats
Moored longtail boats
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
River scenery
Rapids
Rapids
River scenery
River scenery
River traffic
River traffic
An awkward perch
An awkward perch
Heading for rapids
Heading for rapids
Cruising downriver
Cruising downriver
A toilet stop
A toilet stop
Boatman's wife
Boatman's wife
River scenery
River scenery
Tired worker resting on riverbank
Tired worker resting on riverbank
Water babies
Water babies
Boat powers past
Boat powers past
Plume of smoke
Plume of smoke
Small boat
Small boat
Colourful family
Colourful family
Longtail boat full of tourists
Longtail boat full of tourists
Powering downriver
Powering downriver
Solo boatman
Solo boatman
Our last rest stop
Our last rest stop
Monks and their robes drying
Monks and their robes drying
Longtail boat going upstream (with drop of water on lens)
Longtail boat going upstream (with drop of water on lens)
Monk disembarks near temple
Monk disembarks near temple
Almost there - sunset over the Mekong, Luang Prabang
Almost there - sunset over the Mekong, Luang Prabang
Villa Chitdara, my last guesthouse
Villa Chitdara, my last guesthouse
Farewell to Luang Prabang (from aircraft)
Farewell to Luang Prabang (from aircraft)