East Tibet is a roller-coaster ride, and the bottoms of the valleys are often thick with fine dust. When a convoy of Chinese army trucks comes by, you might as well get off your bike and hide for a quarter of an hour till the dust dies down. We climbed a couple of hundred metres from here to get a head start on the next day's pass, and some monks we met showed us a great place to camp just off the road and near a stream but away from headlights and dust.