Agra is more than just the Taj Mahal. Other major tourist sites are the Agra Fort, Itimad ud-Daulah ("baby taj") and Akbar's Mausoleum. Although Lonely Planet says, and I can mostly agree, that Agra is more a place to be endured rather than enjoyed, I found that away from the monuments and their associated touts, beggars and annoying rickshaw drivers, the people of Agra are as friendly as most other Indian cities.