Soon after arriving in Lahore I settled in to watch "Bulla", a production of the Ajoka Theatre. Ajoka has been part of the struggle for a secular, democratic, just and humane Pakistan for the last 21 years.

Entry was free so I was seated with the a vibrant group of about 900 people that truly represented all segments of Lahore society. There were even a few Sikhs present, probably visiting from Amritsar. Bulla, and his Sufi spirituality, still has an appeal and following in Punjab.

The next morning Muzammil cheerfully drove me to the Badshahi Masjid, despite the early hour. I wanted to get some dawn shots. Still lost in the spirit of Bulla.. Dil sey beysakhta baat nikli..."Chal we Bulleya chal uthhey chaliye.." and Muzammil completed the verse for me " Jithey raindey saarey anney...Na koi saadi zaat pehchaney, Na koi sanoo manney".

Discovered that Muzammil had seen "Bulla" twice and knew all his poetry. As we drove to the mosque it was a delight to talk about Bulleh Shah and all his qawwalis that I had heard the night before. Every time I would start a verse, Muzammil would complete it and take the conversation further. What a wonderful morning ......Muzammil Zindabad!! Lahore Zindabad!! May the spirit of Bulleh Shah live forever in the heart of Lahore.

Built by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir in 1673. It is very similar to the Jama Masjid of Delhi that was built a few years earlier by his father Shah Jahan.